Type: Trad, 165 ft
FA: Don Reid, Rick Cashner, Ken Yager (July '77)
Page Views: 207 total · 2/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Oct 23, 2012
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

This a a nice line to the left of the Worst Error Pinnacle, worth a lap if you get down early from another climb in the area. It's a little bit crusty with lichen, but if offers enjoyable climbing with some nice exposure on the upper half. It starts just uphill from Crashline, following an obvious left-facing flake/corner.

Start by hand-over-handing up a wedged flake in a chimney. Then jam past another wedged flake which leads to a ledge with a tree. You can belay here if you want to break it up into two short pitches. Above the tree is an offwidth which widens to a chimney. The top of the chimney pinches down to hands and the exit is quite fun and exposed. Above is sustained 5.9 climbing on flakes in a corner which are sometimes a bit hollow sounding. This leads all the way to a tiny summit on top of a pinnacle.

The rap anchor is a couple 35-y-o 1/4"ers that are in horrible condition but did manage to each hold body-weight when I tested them individually. I extended this down a few feet with a length of cord and tried to get it somewhat equalized with a stopper I left at the top of the crack. This set-up could be further improved with more webbing and shenanigans, but really what it needs is for someone to just haul a bolt kit up there. Rap all the way to the ground with two 50m ropes. It might also be possible to rap with one rope, stopping at a tree near the top of Crashline. We had a terrible time pulling our ropes, and I'm not sure if it's because of my funky anchor setup or what.

Protection

Pro to 4.5"
6" cam is useful near the top of the chimney

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