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Routes in 32 - Elephant Rock

Bucket Brigade S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crack of Despair T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crack of Doom T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crack of Redemption T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crashline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Elephant Talk S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Elephantiasis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Fatal Mistake T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Fun Terminal S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hairline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hocus Pocus S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hotline T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hundredth Monkey, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Left Guru Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lost Error T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Moongerms T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pink Dream T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pink Elephant T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plumb Line T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Real Error T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reality Check T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Right Guru Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sky T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Straight Error T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trundling Juan T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wicked Gravity S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Worst Error, Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Worst Error, Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Barry Bates & Steve Wunsch - 1971
Page Views: 2,253 total, 20/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Sep 26, 2008
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

A great, somewhat burly, two-pitch line. Once you find the start of Hotline and the aid start of Fatal Mistake (fairly easy), scramble up and right around the right side of the Worst Error Pinnacle. This requires some fourth class scrambling up ledges and loose stuff. There is a large chimney between the main wall and the Pinnacle; Pink Dream starts just left of this and is somewhat hidden from view.

P1: Climb a long right facing corner system to a huge ledge. 5.9+, 150'.

P2: Climb the beautiful splitter crack to a burly corner. Belay at three old bolts. 5.10a, 120'.

Descending is somewhat difficult and required us traversing around a ledge into the corner, while on rappel, to a rappel station on a tree.

Protection

Single set from 0.3 Camalot to 0.75 Camalot. Doubles in #1-#3.5 (#4 C4 OK) Camalots. Extra #3 for the timid. Wires. Two ropes for rapping.

Photos

Tony Lobay
  5.10b/c
Tony Lobay  
  5.10b/c
Great line! Inconsistently graded at 9+,10a. Pitches comparable to 10a and 10b/c. I'd have wanted another #4 and a #5 for 2nd pitch. May 26, 2017
erik rieger
Ridgway, CO
 
erik rieger   Ridgway, CO
 
Both pitches are excellent. Easy two-rope rap. Oct 21, 2013
Luke Stefurak
Seattle, WA
 
Luke Stefurak   Seattle, WA
 
The anchor on top of P2 has been replaced. Bomber ASCA hardware. Bryan has the best beta. Two 70m ropes allow for a simple rap straight back to the base. As he said you would need to swing right, into the trees/chimney to get down with two 60m ropes.

I think the key for the 2nd pitch is to have micro cams. There are small pin scars and a Green and Purple C3 would be nice to have.

I placed a #4 but it was not that great given the crazy geometry of the crack.

Super fun climb! Very steep for 10a... Make sure to take a lap on Fatal Mistake when you go up there! Oct 22, 2012
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
You can rappel straight back down to the base from the top with two 70m ropes. Even with two 60m's you should still be able to make it but you might have to swing over to the right a bit where the ground is higher. The climb is actually only about 220ft long, although it feels much taller than that.

Both pitches are excellent. Oct 2, 2012
Lou Hibbard
Eagan, MN
Lou Hibbard   Eagan, MN
I had trouble getting good gear on P2. I kicked out that #11 hex as I led by - looking at a long fall onto a ledge. Onsight or get hurt for me on this one. Pitch 1 is the more classic pitch. Oct 29, 2011
When Donald Reid says, "a #11 hex is useful" in his topo for a down canyon climb. Then by all means, bring a large cam! Having a #5 friend at the top really made me feel good. Given that the second pitch has a definite offwidth section to it.
If you are going to climb this one and have a bolt kit, please update this rappel anchor. Jan 6, 2010
I climbed this last September ('07). The route was burlier than expected but fun. Save some large pro for the end of the second pitch.

The first rap station could use resetting. The second should be avoided.

On the first rap my partner went down then traversed a ways into the gully to the station (tree with slings). This put him in the middle of a wasps nest where he was stung numerous times. To avoid this, it may be possible to rap straight down to other trees in the gully and set up a second rap there. Not sure if the ropes will reach so be sure to knot your rope. Sep 26, 2008