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Routes in Runway (Lower Tier)

A Day with Dr. Diablo S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Aerostar S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Airfoil S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Aviatrix S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Boarding Pass S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Clip Art S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Drunk Rednecks with Golf Clubs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ergo S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flight Simulator S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Holding Pattern S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
JetStream S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Learning to Fly S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mocos Locos S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pitch S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Right Stuff, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Space Shuttle S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stone Temple Pilot S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Top Gun S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Turbulence S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Yaw S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Rich Strang & Mike Phalan
Page Views: 72 total, 1/month
Shared By: Rich Strang on Jun 15, 2012
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Start at a flake in the groove left of the wide crack moving left to the blunt arete at the 2nd bolt. Continue up the arete climbing left of the bolts then back right after the 4th bolt. Finish the pitch just right of the bulge and over the final notch/roof to the anchors

Location

5 feet left of a wide crack which is between "Drunk Rednecks" and Clip Art

Protection

7 bolts plus lowering chains

Photos

Dave Wachter  
 
Seemed like the obvious climbing wandered wide of the bolt line, would be a sketchy on-sight for an 11- climber. Helmet advised for climber and belayer - we pulled off a big rock. Oct 1, 2014
Rich Strang
Santa Fe, NM
 
Rich Strang   Santa Fe, NM
 
The rock and movement on this route is real nice. It would get 3 stars if escape onto "Rednecks" wasn't so easy. Definitely worth doing though! I think its a good warm-up route for some of the longer routes near-by - It feels more like Diablo 5.10+ to me but I may know the moves too well. Jun 15, 2012