Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Ken Kisiel, Dennis Newell
Page Views: 2,624 total · 17/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Oct 1, 2006 with improvements by Rennie Putnam
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


58 Opinions

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Description

A fun, good sport route on the right end of the Early Wall. Called the easiest sport route at Diablo, it's a good way to warm up and/or get used to the rock. Lots of good ledges for hands and feet to a relatively thin crux near the top.

Location

This is on the right end of the Early Wall near the entrance to the Grotto. It's shown as route #15 on the online Diablo Canyon guide.

Protection

6 bolts to two-bolt anchor.

Photos

Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
 
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
 
See route # 15 on photo Oct 31, 2006
Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
 
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
 
Use this route to access Airbus by traversing left and up 20 feet from the anchors. Dec 7, 2006
Anthony Stout
Albuquerque, NM
 
Anthony Stout   Albuquerque, NM  
 
Great route for the grade. Lots of pulls going the "wrong" way make for great opositional movement. Sort of a signature for Diablo. Jul 29, 2007
The Diablo Standard crack (first pitch crack awful) above this route had been climbed by Greg Swift and Tim Johnson In the early 1980s although I do not know if it was a FA. Apr 2, 2008
The crack we dubed "Diablo Standard" in the mid 90's is well east of this route and consists of two pitches (see online guide). Although there could be another Diablo Standard named by different parties that could also be considered "crack awful" through the lower band of rock. Jul 8, 2008
Rich Strang
Santa Fe, NM
 
Rich Strang   Santa Fe, NM
 
Anyone been working on a new route between Drunk Rednecks & Clip Art (at the Runway/Early Wall)? We cleaned the line partialy about 2 weeks ago and added a directional bolt. Last Friday, Mike noticed a set of anchors above the line that I don't recall being there before. Anyone planning anything?
May 15, 2012