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Areas in Early Wall

Left End 3 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Observatory Wall (Upper Tier) 4 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Runway (Lower Tier) 0 / 20 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 20

Description

Early Wall is the broad wall on the left side of the canyon. This area sees sun early in the a.m., and shade the rest of the day.

Climbs are in three sections of the cliff:

Getting There

  • The easiest approach is by the Runway/Grotto approach trail. This trail starts in the arroyo straight across from the trail to the Winter Wall.
  • Climbs at the "Left End" (east) are also easily reached by a faint trail with cairns, along the left end of the talus.

37 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Early Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Drunk Rednecks with Golf Clubs
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Humbolt
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Learning to Fly
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Top Gun
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mocos Locos
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Airbus
Trad 2 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Aviatrix
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lichening The Serpent
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Aerostar
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Holding Pattern
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flight Simulator
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Turbulence
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Schmeming
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
The Right Stuff
Sport
Drunk Rednecks with Golf Clubs Runway (Lower Tier) 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Humbolt Left End 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Learning to Fly Runway (Lower Tier) 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Top Gun Runway (Lower Tier) 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Mocos Locos Runway (Lower Tier) 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Airbus Observatory Wall (Upper Tier) 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Aviatrix Runway (Lower Tier) 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Lichening The Serpent Observatory Wall (Upper Tier) 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Aerostar Runway (Lower Tier) 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Holding Pattern Runway (Lower Tier) 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Flight Simulator Runway (Lower Tier) 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Turbulence Runway (Lower Tier) 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Schmeming Left End 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
The Right Stuff Runway (Lower Tier) 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
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Jason Young
Los Alamos, NM
Jason Young   Los Alamos, NM
The new trail is GREAT! Whoever put in all that work, THANKS!!! I think this trail works just fine for access to the Grotto also. Oct 1, 2012
For the record, a number of the cracks on Early Wall (both of the extreme left side and near Up to Bat) were done by a combination of Tom Wezwick, Mark Thomas, Chris Kessler, Alex Sfakianos and Karl Kiser. Rick Bradshaw et. al. may have done these at about the same time but we spent a lot of time cleaning. Rick isn't the only one to have worked on a route and then found it bolted. Apr 1, 2008

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