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Elevation: 5,996 ft 1,828 m
GPS: 35.80501, -106.14174
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Aaron Miller on Sep 28, 2009 · Updates
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown
Warning Access Issue: Effective May 2025 - Climbing Fixed Hardware Authorization Process for BLM walls at Diablo DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Early Wall is the broad wall on the left side of the canyon. This area sees sun early in the a.m., and shade the rest of the day.

Climbs are in three sections of the cliff:

Getting There Suggest change

  • The easiest approach is by the Runway/Grotto approach trail. This trail starts in the arroyo straight across from the trail to the Winter Wall.
  • Climbs at the "Left End" (east) are also easily reached by a faint trail with cairns, along the left end of the talus.

42 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Early Wall Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Early Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 116
Drunk Rednecks with Golf Clubs
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 78
The Mile-High Club
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 49
Humbolt
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 70
Ergo
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 38
Start the Machine
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 105
Top Gun
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
 6
Airbus
Trad 2 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 38
Aviatrix
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 9
Lichening The Serpent
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 26
Airfoil
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 40
Aerostar
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 26
Holding Pattern
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 31
Turbulence
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 12
Schmeming
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 28
The Right Stuff
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Drunk Rednecks with Golf Clubs Runway (Lower Tier)
 116
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
The Mile-High Club Runway (Lower Tier)
 78
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Humbolt Left End
 49
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Ergo Runway (Lower Tier)
 70
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Start the Machine Runway (Lower Tier)
 38
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Top Gun Runway (Lower Tier)
 105
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Airbus Observatory Wall (Upp…
 6
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Aviatrix Runway (Lower Tier)
 38
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Lichening The Serpent Observatory Wall (Upp…
 9
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Airfoil Runway (Lower Tier)
 26
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Aerostar Runway (Lower Tier)
 40
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Holding Pattern Runway (Lower Tier)
 26
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Turbulence Runway (Lower Tier)
 31
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Schmeming Left End
 12
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
The Right Stuff Runway (Lower Tier)
 28
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Early Wall »

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