Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Ken Kisiel, Scott Beguin, and Billy Butler
Page Views: 943 total · 7/month
Shared By: Scott Beguin on Aug 14, 2007
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

The opening moves set the tempo for this exposed and sustained classic. The crux is through the bottom moves but does not jump out at you as a crux at any time. It is pretty sustained, balancy, and thin climbing from the get go. You have to move like a serpent would in S shapes and have good footwork. Very interesting and a must do, but not on a wet day.

Location

Same as for Diablo at The Early Wall then climb either Drunk Rednecks, Clip Art, or Dr. Diablo and go above the anchors to a sketchy 5th class scramble(a green Alien protects a move) up to the belay anchors for Lichening The Serpent that is located at a notch between the wall and a very large block.

Protection

8 bolts to a two bolt anchor.

Photos

George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.11c
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.11c
D. Newell made a toprope ascent with one of the FAs listed here, scoping the line, prior to its being bolted, he said, (if I remember correctly). Apr 21, 2008
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.11c
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.11c
The lichen covered "thank god" horn/flake between bolts 6 and 7 flexes quite a lot. Don't yard on it too hard. Apr 11, 2010