Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Aaron Miller and Josh Smith
Page Views: 1,711 total · 12/month
Shared By: Aaron Miller on Oct 26, 2006
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route

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Airbus (see route 18 on photo)

An obvious long offwidth pitch can be seen from across the canyon as a corner thats adjacent to the right most rock buttress with lots of lichen (lichening the serpent is on this). The first pitch is either a dirty 5.8 stem corner that leads to a stellar cove below a clean squeeze bombay chimney or an easy traverse from a 5.8 sport route (Drunk Rednecks). Great belays with chain anchors. Fight your way up a hard 5.11 squeeze that gets you on top of a large chockstone with mostly 5.10 wide climbing above. Bring all your largest gear and 1 each of various hand sizes.

If you get rejected from the squeeze chimney crux, there is a really nice 5.9 splitter hand crack that leads up and left from the belay and after about 20 feet, you can hand traverse back into the wide corner for some stellar 5.10 wide corner climbing.


Start up Drunk Rednecks... (5.8 access pitch of Lichening the Serpent) and traverse left at the anchors for 20 feet with gear toward comfy cove with bolted anchor. Or, start in dirty corner just left of the 5.8 bolted route. Belayer can stand to side to avoid rockfall.


 Single rack to #2, then doubles to #6. I brought a single 4 and 5 and it was fine, but I got bitched out by Dave Moeser for not giving him enough big gear on his attempt.  One 60m rope for two raps to the ground.


Josh Smith
Josh Smith  
I can't think of another OW of this quality within several hours driving. Classic overhanging bomb bay start with almost 80ft of excellent 10- OW above. Excellent vision, Aaron! Jun 22, 2008
Steven VanSickle
Ouray, Co
Steven VanSickle   Ouray, Co
What is pg13 about this route? Oct 14, 2008
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
Steven, I think the PG13 is because it is unprotected (but not too tough) off the belay entering the bombay slot before you get a #6 Camalot in, but the hardest crux moves are well-protected by the #6 cam. The last face climbing section to the chains is also heady (5.9 or 5.10-?), especially after the thrashing you just experienced, but a fall would be clean. I also think that the crux of this climb is easier if you're scrawny like myself because you can get farther into the narrow part of the slot. Super fun. Nov 3, 2008
Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
Moving from the nice bolted belay, one steps down a touch to reach the crack so a fall wouldn't be too bad as long as your #6 went in soon. I think I gave the rating for the upper section of the route which is probably no harder than 5.9. The gear is good, but maybe a touch spaced out. 2 #6s is nice to have so you can ditch one in the back to keep the rope at bay early on.

definitely harder for the barrel chested folk, I would agree. Apr 3, 2009