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Routes in Left End

Aileron Roll S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Airway Arete S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Diablo Cruiser, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Early Arete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Humbolt S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock n Road T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rope Burn in Hell S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Schmeming S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Two Wheel Drive S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Up To Bat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Josh Smith, Mick Schein, Walt Wehner, Leslie Kelch, and Rick Bradshaw, March 2000
Page Views: 3,213 total, 26/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Oct 23, 2007
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

The best warm-up on the Early Wall, and one of the best routes at the grade at Diablo (that's not on the Winter Wall, anyway). Its name hints at the first three bolt placements near the crack, without which it would see much less traffic. Start on a big block and climb a finger crack followed by a mantle, then crimping and edging on the thin face left of the arete on small edges to the anchor. This climb is thinner but not as steep as most at Diablo. Fun, high quality climbing.

Location

Just left of 2 Wheel Drive.
It's climb #8 in this online guide photo

Protection

9 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

Ken Jones
Grants, NM
  5.10a
Ken Jones   Grants, NM
  5.10a
Fun climb with a nice variety of moves. Sep 19, 2011
Rick Bradshaw
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10a
Rick Bradshaw   Los Alamos, NM
  5.10a
This route was established in March 2000 by a host of characters on a beautiful spring day at Diablo, including Josh Smith, Mick Schein, Walt Wehner, Leslie Kelch, and Rick Bradshaw. This gets early morning sun and has a bit of everything making it a great warmup for the Early Wall. Nov 24, 2007