Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: A. Miller, C. Hall, A. Jordan
Page Views: 693 total · 6/month
Shared By: Aaron Miller on Sep 27, 2009
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

Several cruxes of the grade interrupted by some good rests. Start up a steep arete to a stance that leads right around the arete to a good rest with a bomber hand jam behind a large block (some folks think this block is scary loose, but a 48" crowbar couldn't make it vibrate, so I'm not too worried). When refreshed, access the steep face above through some delicate, airy, but easy moves to set up for the techy crux. Save something for the top!
**  110"    Tie a knot in the end of your rope so you don't drop your climber when lowering with a 60m.**

Rope stretch will get you to the ground with a 60.

Location

Between Aerostar and Yaw. Start up a wide open-book corner, clip the first two bolts out left easily, and launch into fun short crux after fun short crux.

Protection

14 bolts

Photos

Sky Sjue
Santa Fe
Sky Sjue   Santa Fe
Climbed this one again recently and a 60 m worked fine.

However, this route has more than its quota of sketchy rock even for Diablo. To anybody looking for a good 5.12- climb at the Runway, the other three are much better IMHO. Plenty of parts of the route with loose stuff on climber's right, but the column to climber's left through the whole middle section of the route gives me the creeps. YMMV. Aug 6, 2017