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Routes in Runway (Lower Tier)

A Day with Dr. Diablo S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Aerostar S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Airfoil S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Aviatrix S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Boarding Pass S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Clip Art S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Drunk Rednecks with Golf Clubs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ergo S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flight Simulator S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Holding Pattern S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
JetStream S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Learning to Fly S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mocos Locos S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pitch S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Right Stuff, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Space Shuttle S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stone Temple Pilot S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Top Gun S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Turbulence S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Yaw S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: A. Miller, C. Hall, A. Jordan
Page Views: 641 total, 6/month
Shared By: Aaron Miller on Sep 27, 2009
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Several cruxes of the grade interrupted by some good rests. Start up a steep arete to a stance that leads right around the arete to access the steep face above. Save something for the top! Tie a knot in the end of your rope so you drop your climber when lowering with a 60m.

Location

Between Aerostar and Yaw. Start up a wide open-book corner, clip the first two bolts out left easily, and launch into fun short crux after fun short crux.

Protection

14 bolts

Photos

Sky Sjue
Santa Fe
Sky Sjue   Santa Fe
Climbed this one again recently and a 60 m worked fine.

However, this route has more than its quota of sketchy rock even for Diablo. To anybody looking for a good 5.12- climb at the Runway, the other three are much better IMHO. Plenty of parts of the route with loose stuff on climber's right, but the column to climber's left through the whole middle section of the route gives me the creeps. YMMV. Aug 6, 2017