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Routes in Runway (Lower Tier)

A Day with Dr. Diablo S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Aerostar S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Airfoil S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Aviatrix S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Boarding Pass S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Clip Art S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Drunk Rednecks with Golf Clubs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ergo S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flight Simulator S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Holding Pattern S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
JetStream S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Learning to Fly S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mocos Locos S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pitch S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Right Stuff, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Space Shuttle S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stone Temple Pilot S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Top Gun S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Turbulence S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Yaw S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Rick Bradshaw and Scott Beguin, 2000
Page Views: 624 total, 6/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Nov 2, 2008
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Make a committing move off the block, then up with ground fall potential past a couple more bolts in a left facing corner (bolts are to the right out on the face and difficult to see). Step out of the corner around the arete to the right (crux) and up a slabby section. Continue up the steep face on good holds wandering a bit, mostly right when things get thin. At the anchor, the clipping hold out left is a loose block! be careful. There is a fixed rope to the right of the anchor, presumably to access La Nariz.

Location

Near the low point of the wall starting off a 4-5' tall platform and climbing Very black rock, so the chalk shows up really well.

Protection

Bolts and anchor hooks.

Photos

AOSR
Wherever we park!
  5.11b PG13
AOSR   Wherever we park!
  5.11b PG13
i agree with chip, a fall above the 3rd bolt (crux section) would be painful. stellar line Jun 1, 2010
chipacles
  5.11b PG13
chipacles  
  5.11b PG13
The first five clips are pretty heady. Making the crux move out of the dihedral and onto the face for (I think) the third clip is scary...falling here could be bad. After the fifth bolt, it's not heady anymore, but you've still got 8 clips to go and it's pretty sustained climbing. Fun route. Jun 1, 2010
Rick Bradshaw
Los Alamos, NM
  5.11b
Rick Bradshaw   Los Alamos, NM
  5.11b
FA was by Rick Bradshaw and (correction) Scott Beguin in 2000. I like this route because the holds are sort of ergonomic (we've come to call this type of rock "pillowy basalt") and because it rewards good balance and rhythm (even though I struggle with both). It's worth doing by itself, but combining it with La Naris makes for a somewhat adventurous but rewarding 5.11 outing. Nov 10, 2008