All Locations > New Mexico > Santa Fe Area > Diablo Canyon > Early Wall > Runway (Lower Tier)

A Day with Dr. Diablo

Name: A Day with Dr. Diablo
Rating: 2.1

5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British

Routes in Runway (Lower Tier)

L › R R › L A › Z

	A Day with Dr. Diablo S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Aerostar S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Airfoil S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Aviatrix S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Boarding Pass S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Clip Art S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Drunk Rednecks with Golf Clubs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Ergo S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Eyes Wide on Arrival S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Flight Simulator S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Holding Pattern S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	JetStream S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Learning to Fly S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Mile-High Club, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Mocos Locos S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Pitch S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Right Stuff, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Space Shuttle S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Start the Machine S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Stone Temple Pilot S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Top Gun S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Turbulence S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Yaw S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Type:	Sport, 45 ft (14 m)
FA:	Rick Bradshaw, Scott Beguin, Jason Hundhausen, Ken Kisiel
Page Views:	1,468 total · 7/month
Shared By:	Jason Halladay on Oct 1, 2006
Admins:	Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown Page Updates (admin only)

You & This Route

42 Opinions

Your To-Do List: ·

Your Star Rating:
Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change

Your Ticks:Add New Tick

-none-

Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands Details

Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.

Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.

Description

This route flirts with the arete but mostly climbs the face just left of the arete. Plenty of side pulls lead through a couple of small bulges to the crux near the last bolt. The anchor placement feels a bit contrived between a good rest and what appears would be a couple more good moves.