Type: Sport, 80 ft (24 m)
GPS: 37.01222, 26.94517
FA: Daphne & Flaviano Bessone, Adele Gamba, 2001
Page Views: 1,412 total · 8/month
Shared By: Top Rope Hero on Oct 25, 2011
Admins: Jason Halladay, Luke Bertelsen, Charles Yang, Loren P

You & This Route


23 Opinions
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Description Suggest change

You. Must. Do. Daphne.

Only a whiff of tufa on this one. Very un-kalymnian like. Still, this plum belongs in your basket. Go pluck it, tiger!

Trend up 'n' right on great, warm-up face moves requiring delicate, precise footwork on increasingly greasy feet. Hands will take care of themselves; the edges and pockets here will swallow you. Keep reading and running, keep moving and grooving. Shake out when you can, particularly on the last, sloping ramp before mounting the final shield; the crux (near the top) can be a heartbreak.

Location Suggest change

On the extreme right side of the Orion wall, on the left side of the Marci Marc cave where only the immortal send. Belayers get to take in the show.

Protection Suggest change

A dozen plus draws and steely nerves, shoes soled with gorilla glue. Two-bolt/two-'biner anchor.

Beta Mention--not really a spoiler Suggest change

This climb is a tale of two endings. 

M'not sure about the new guide, but the old Aris book says that the route finishes on the pockets up the face. Further suggests that mounting the final tufa on the left cheats the grade. Oh, whatevers!

Without giving any spray away, I think the opposite. I found wonky, non-intuitive beta on those pockets that made it an easier, if unlikely, send, possibly right at 7a. Whereas using the tufa commits you to a fierce clampdown session right as you're building up the pump from 20+ meters of filthy footwork. I think staying left on the barely-there tufa is more aesthetically clean, far harder, keeps the rope line in check, and remains the money sequence. But you go wander off right, if'n it pleases you. Daphne will take you either way. 

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