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Routes in Odyssey

Alfredo Alfredo S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Amphora S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Andromeda S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Argo Navis S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Arugliopoulos S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Atena S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bonnie S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Calipso S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ciao Vecchio S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Circe S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Clyde S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Daphne S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dionysos S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Early Bird S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Elies S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Eurycleia S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Femio S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Feta S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fouska S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Haryvdi S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hyma sto Kyma S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Il Gigante e la Bambina S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Imia S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Inti Raymi S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Island Highway S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Island Highway Extension S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Island in the Sun S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kulturistica S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Laertes S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lestrygon S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lucky Luca S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lucky Strike S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Marci Marc S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Meltemi S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mermizeli S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mikrotera Kalamarakia S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mon Amour S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Morfeas S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mythos S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Nausica Nausicaa S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nessuno S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Odisseo S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
On the Verge S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Orion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Patroclos Reborn S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Penelope S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Poly Retsina No Good S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Satyros S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sirene S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Telemaco S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Triton S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Daphne & Flaviano Bessone, Adele Gamba, 2001
Page Views: 363 total, 5/month
Shared By: Top Rope Hero on Oct 25, 2011
Admins: WAGbag, Luke Bertelsen, Jason Halladay

You & This Route


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Description

You. Must. Do. Daphne.

No, NOT the cartoon character of Scooby-Doo fame, freak. The climb. THIS climb. Although it's crazily un-Kalymnian in that it only has a whiff of tufa, nevertheless this plum belongs in your basket. Go pick it.

Trend up 'n' right on the velvet thighs of virgins. Delicate, precise footwork on increasingly greasy feet help. So would poise and the kind of balance that Cirque du Soleil performers would knife you for in the back alley mean streets of Quebec. Hands will take care of themselves; the edges and pockets here will swallow you to the elbows. Shake out when you can; the crux (near the top) is a bitch.

SPOILER ALERT: Now...here's the thing of it. The Aris suggests that "the route" sends the desperate pockets up the face, that mounting the tufa on the left essentially cheats the grade. Unstoppable is my river of "whatever"!

The face holds include a deep but hidden downward mono on a high, right-sloping rail. Which makes mounting the top fairly 11ish. But stay on the steeper and more committing left face cuts and put the Kegel clamp down on that tufa pipe, feet up micro edges—now THAT is the money sequence. Far more aesthetically clean. Far more brilliant, harder, even. AND it follows proper the bolt line, not wanders off left for the pendulum of doom.

But? Make your own choice. Daphne would have wanted it that way.

Location

On the extreme right side of the Orion wall, on the left side of the Marci Marc cave where only the immortal send. Belayers get to take in the show.

Protection

A dozen plus draws and steely nerves, shoes soled with gorilla glue. Two-bolt/two-'biner anchor.

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