Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Andrea & Silvia Minneto, 1999
Page Views: 326 total · 4/month
Shared By: Top Rope Hero on Oct 25, 2011
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, Jason Halladay

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

Ciao Vecchio means, "good-bye to problem solving."

Named so because, apparently, the chalk gremlins have come out en mass to show you, step by step, tick mark by tick mark, which holds to grab. Stevie Wonder could red point this climb. Ciao is so well mapped out, in fact, that personally I'd drop it a grade, maybe two. (But I'll let the official "11a" grade stand here. Just sayin' it's REAL soft.)

Move up a low-angle ramp until the wall steepens and the pockets deepen. Paint by numbers up the tick marks, roll up until the wall hangs over, then pop right into a shallow, micro dihedral with good edges. Clip, then do please try to scratch out all the road signs on the way down. Pee on the wall if you have to.

Location

Just up from the "Atena Wall," low on the shady, northern facing side of Odyssey. About a dozen lines up from the very first line on Odyssey, Ciao Vecchio is well-marked in near the base of the wall.

Protection

About 10 plus quickdraws with a 2-bolt/2-'biner anchor. Moves are etched in brail.

Photos

Eric Julien
Shawingan-Sud, Québec
 
Eric Julien   Shawingan-Sud, Québec
 
If you go straight up at the crux (instead of right), the grade increase to 11d. Jul 28, 2018