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Elevation: 33 ft
GPS: 36.9526, 26.979
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Shared By: Erik Olson on Jan 21, 2008 · Updates
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Description Suggest change

[Updated 2015]
Kalymnos may be one of the greatest sport climbing areas in the world. With over 3400 routes in the 2019 guide being mostly accessible with a short hike and/or scooter and great amenities you'll wonder why you've ever climbed anywhere else. Many of the routes feature tufas and are steep, but there is also an array of pockets, thin vertical climbing and LOTS of moderates on the lower angle grey limestone. There is something for everybody with grades from 5a to 9a (5.7 to 5.14d). Many of the popular areas/routes have a steel lowering biner for quick and easy cleaning. With some exceptions, the bolting is generally close together and safe, with particular attention paid to the first three to avoid deck potential. The atmosphere is quite different here than other locales, the climbers tend to be a little older and tend to travel as couples as opposed to a place like Thailand.
For all the information you need to get to Kalymnos and have a great time, see the ClimbKalymnos.com FAQ.

Grades: Kalymnos had a reputation for 'vacation grades' for the most part although the recent guides did a nearly wholesale downgrade. Because of this, many of the grades painted on the rock will be higher than that of the guide. You'll note a substantial increase in difficulty on humid days or when the rock seeps a little, so be weary of your desire to downgrade any further, you may have just had good weather.

Getting There Suggest change

[Updated Nov 2012]

During the summer months up to about Nov 1st, Europeans have the option to fly diretly to Kos island from many major cities. After Nov. 1 many of these flights are discontinued until spring and they will have to route through Athens for a higher cost.

Folks making a longer journey in will likely find it most convenient to fly to Athens then grab one of the many flights to Kos on Olympic or Aegean.

Once in Kos go to the town of Mastahari and grab the ferry to the Kalymnos port town of Pothia. Take the bus 2 euro from there to Massouri. It is 18 Euro  for a cab (2020).

There is usually one late ferry to accommodate the last flight into Kos from Athens. If for whatever reason you miss it, there are plenty of hotels to grab in Mastahari walking distance from the ferry.

Creative options:

Take ferries between islands all the way from Athens. This will be more expensive and take a long time but you may enjoy several of the islands on the way in. Santorini or Crete would be well worth a stay.

You can also fly to Istanbul for some tourism then fly to Bodrum Turkey and take the ferry over to Kos (Kalymnos is much closer to Turkey than to mainland Greece).

Ryan Air flies from many European cities directly to Kos (before Nov 1st)

Traveling after Nov 1st?

Many of the island-island ferries and flights start to disappear but connections to Athens are still frequent. Tourism is basically over for all the islands except Kalymnos...

Food Beta

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Updated November 2022

RESTAURAUNTS:

There's lot of options in Massouri, including vegan and vegetarian options. Most restaurants are closed during the winter and start re-opening in late March/April.

If you are finished climbing in the afternoon before 5pm, many places are closed. Places that are open include Sofranos, Fatolitis, Ambiance, Kouzina, On the Road, and il Posto.

WATER:
Do not drink the tap water. Fill up your water bottles for free at the various TEMAK stations. They are white rectangles with a red roof. There's on in the middle of Massouri and another one at the north end of town before the switchbacks back towards Pothia. 

GROCERIES:
There are various mini markets scattered throughout Massouri. There is a big supermarket in Panormos (heading back to Pothia on the right side) called AB.

There's a lot of bakeries in Pothia for fresh bread and pastries. 

Season

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[Updated 2012]
Kalymnos can be climbed all year around but the dominant season is spring/fall with most climbers going in October so crags will get a little full during this time.

The dominant reason that people do not climb as much in the winter is simply because the tourism season has died and many of the amenities in Massouri have shut down about Nov 1st and less direct flights are available from the rest of Europe. That said, there will still be a few restaraunts and at least one market open. Since most Kalymnians live and work at the same place, their studios usually remain available all winter so lodging should not be an issue. In addition there is more rain in Dec/Jan. During Oct/Nov rain usually doesn't last long or affect your climbing day much (hint: when the forcast shows rain, go climbing to avoid crowds since it probably won't rain anyway).

Guidebook (Mo' Beta)

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[Updated 2019]

The Kalymnos Rock Climbing Guidebook by Aris Theodoropoulos]] climbkalymnos.com/guidebook/ is THE book to have for Kalymnos beta. The 2019 update includes over 3,400 routes and the Android or iOS app (see below).

The Kalymnos Rock Climbing Topo app;hl=en is a great app with loads of beta and route information. All proceeds from the sale of the app go to the Glaros Bolt Fund to fund replacement and new hardware for Kalymnos routes.

Gear Beta

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Rope
60m rope: This will give you access to many routes but you will be limited.
70m rope: This is highly recommended and gains you access to most routes. Still - tie a knot in the end as there are many rope stretchers even for a 70.
80-100m rope: Talendos is now boasting routes requiring ropes of this length, and some on Kalymnos. Many big extensions will be easier with this.
You do not need to bring a stick clip.
14 draws would be a minimum for one person (or 18 for a pair if you plan to climb the same routes). Bring a few slings and longer draws to get around tufa features and depressions that cause rope drag on these long routes. 28 draws for a couple worked.

Quickdraws
18 to 20 quickdraws will have you covered. Many of the steeper routes have perma-draws in-situ.

Leaver biners
Do not leave quick-links and try not to leave biners. The environment permanently freezes quick links shut, and perhaps biners as well on less popular routes. You can rap or lower directly on a single cold shut if that was used.

Kneebar pads
This place is kneebar heaven. You may want one or two of these if you're going to push your grade or be climbing above 5.11. Durable pants will be sufficient on many routes. The grades often assume you're taking the rests into account. On the stalactite routes you'll also want a shirt on as you'll get creative back rests, headlocks, chicken wings, threadthroughs, laydowns, rodeos etc.

1,489 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Kalymnos

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 134
Monahiki Elia
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 47
Les Amazones
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 102
Remember Wadi Rum
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 65
Taz
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 61
Feta
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 101
Frapagalo
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 53
Resista
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 61
Dafni
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 152
DNA
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 50
Kastor
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 43
Trela
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 77
Ricounet
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 74
Ivi
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 41
Mort aux Chèvres
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 38
Spartacus
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Monahiki Elia Grande Grotta
 134
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Les Amazones Spartacus
 47
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Remember Wadi Rum Ghost Kitchen > Main Wall
 102
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Taz Grande Grotta
 65
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Feta Odyssey
 61
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Frapagalo Secret Garden
 101
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Resista Ghost Kitchen > Left Wall
 53
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Dafni Ghost Kitchen > Main Wall
 61
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
DNA Grande Grotta
 152
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Kastor Arhi
 50
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Trela Grande Grotta
 43
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Ricounet Secret Garden
 77
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Ivi Grande Grotta
 74
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Mort aux Chèvres Sikati Cave
 41
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Spartacus Spartacus
 38
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Kalymnos »

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