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Kalymnos Rock Climbing
| Elevation: | 33 ft |
| GPS: | 36.953, 26.979 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 172,596 total · 1,310/month |
| Shared By: | Erik Olson on Jan 21, 2008 |
| Admins: | Luke Bertelsen, Jason Halladay |
Description
[Updated 2015]
Kalymnos may be one of the greatest sport climbing areas in the world. With about 2500 routes in the 2015 guide being mostly accessible with a short hike and/or scooter and great amenities you'll wonder why you've ever climbed anywhere else. Many of the routes feature tufas and are steep, but there is also an array of pockets, thin vertical climbing and LOTS of moderates on the lower angle grey limestone. There is something for everybody with grades from 5a to 9a (5.7 to 5.14d). Many of the popular areas/routes have a steel lowering biner for quick and easy cleaning. With some exceptions, the bolting is generally close together and safe, with particular attention paid to the first three to avoid deck potential. The atmosphere is quite different here than other locales, the climbers tend to be a little older and tend to travel as couples as opposed to a place like Thailand.
For all the information you need to get to Kalymnos and have a great time, see the ClimbKalymnos.com FAQ.
Grades: Kalymnos had a reputation for 'vacation grades' for the most part although the recent guides did a nearly wholesale downgrade. Because of this, many of the grades painted on the rock will be higher than that of the guide. You will note a substantial increase in difficulty on humid days or when the rock seeps a little, so be weary of your desire to downgrade any further, you may have just had good weather.
Kalymnos may be one of the greatest sport climbing areas in the world. With about 2500 routes in the 2015 guide being mostly accessible with a short hike and/or scooter and great amenities you'll wonder why you've ever climbed anywhere else. Many of the routes feature tufas and are steep, but there is also an array of pockets, thin vertical climbing and LOTS of moderates on the lower angle grey limestone. There is something for everybody with grades from 5a to 9a (5.7 to 5.14d). Many of the popular areas/routes have a steel lowering biner for quick and easy cleaning. With some exceptions, the bolting is generally close together and safe, with particular attention paid to the first three to avoid deck potential. The atmosphere is quite different here than other locales, the climbers tend to be a little older and tend to travel as couples as opposed to a place like Thailand.
For all the information you need to get to Kalymnos and have a great time, see the ClimbKalymnos.com FAQ.
Grades: Kalymnos had a reputation for 'vacation grades' for the most part although the recent guides did a nearly wholesale downgrade. Because of this, many of the grades painted on the rock will be higher than that of the guide. You will note a substantial increase in difficulty on humid days or when the rock seeps a little, so be weary of your desire to downgrade any further, you may have just had good weather.
Getting There
[Updated Nov 2012]
During the summer months up to about Nov 1st, Europeans have the option to fly diretly to Kos island from many major cities. After Nov. 1 many of these flights are discontinued until spring and they will have to route through Athens for a higher cost.
Folks making a longer journey in will likely find it most convenient to fly to Athens then grab one of the many flights to Kos on Olympic or Aegean.
Once in Kos go to the town of Mastahari and grab the ferry to the Kalymnos port town of Pothia. Take the bus from there to Massouri or wherever you are staying for a couple Euro, or 15 Euro cab (2012).
There is usually one late ferry to accommodate the last flight into Kos from Athens. If for whatever reason you miss it, there are plenty of hotels to grab in Mastahari walking distance from the ferry.
Creative options:
Take ferries between islands all the way from Athens. This will be more expensive and take a long time but you may enjoy several of the islands on the way in. Santorini or Crete would be well worth a stay.
You can also fly to Istanbul for some tourism then fly to Bodrum Turkey and take the ferry over to Kos (Kalymnos is much closer to Turkey than to mainland Greece).
Ryan Air flies from many European cities directly to Kos (before Nov 1st)
Traveling after Nov 1st?
Many of the island-island ferries and flights start to disappear but connections to Athens are still frequent. Tourism is basically over for all the islands except Kalymnos...
During the summer months up to about Nov 1st, Europeans have the option to fly diretly to Kos island from many major cities. After Nov. 1 many of these flights are discontinued until spring and they will have to route through Athens for a higher cost.
Folks making a longer journey in will likely find it most convenient to fly to Athens then grab one of the many flights to Kos on Olympic or Aegean.
Once in Kos go to the town of Mastahari and grab the ferry to the Kalymnos port town of Pothia. Take the bus from there to Massouri or wherever you are staying for a couple Euro, or 15 Euro cab (2012).
There is usually one late ferry to accommodate the last flight into Kos from Athens. If for whatever reason you miss it, there are plenty of hotels to grab in Mastahari walking distance from the ferry.
Creative options:
Take ferries between islands all the way from Athens. This will be more expensive and take a long time but you may enjoy several of the islands on the way in. Santorini or Crete would be well worth a stay.
You can also fly to Istanbul for some tourism then fly to Bodrum Turkey and take the ferry over to Kos (Kalymnos is much closer to Turkey than to mainland Greece).
Ryan Air flies from many European cities directly to Kos (before Nov 1st)
Traveling after Nov 1st?
Many of the island-island ferries and flights start to disappear but connections to Athens are still frequent. Tourism is basically over for all the islands except Kalymnos...
Food Beta
[Updated 2012]
There are many places to eat in Massouri, some better than others but all are worth trying. The climber hangout seems to be Fats mostly due to the location at the end of town, closest to climbing, and can fill up quickly.
Water can be obtained at spring inside a small stone hut right on the main street, down from Fats.
There's a supermarket in Panormos (on the way to Pothia) with much better prices.
The Pirate Bar in Emporios is awesome.
Coffee and espresso is mostly instant. The exception is at the climbers nest and Glaros.
The proprietor at Glaros is a suckubus. Go there to try and make him smile as a challenge. Climber: "Can I get cheese on the omelet?" Glaros "Do you want me to fuck up my kitchen just so you can have cheese?" If you're having too much fun and want to hate your life, go here.
Fani Market has great bread but it sells out quick.
There are many places to eat in Massouri, some better than others but all are worth trying. The climber hangout seems to be Fats mostly due to the location at the end of town, closest to climbing, and can fill up quickly.
Water can be obtained at spring inside a small stone hut right on the main street, down from Fats.
There's a supermarket in Panormos (on the way to Pothia) with much better prices.
The Pirate Bar in Emporios is awesome.
Coffee and espresso is mostly instant. The exception is at the climbers nest and Glaros.
The proprietor at Glaros is a suckubus. Go there to try and make him smile as a challenge. Climber: "Can I get cheese on the omelet?" Glaros "Do you want me to fuck up my kitchen just so you can have cheese?" If you're having too much fun and want to hate your life, go here.
Fani Market has great bread but it sells out quick.
Season
[Updated 2012]
Kalymnos can be climbed all year around but the dominant season is spring/fall with most climbers going in October so crags will get a little full during this time.
The dominant reason that people do not climb as much in the winter is simply because the tourism season has died and many of the amenities in Massouri have shut down about Nov 1st and less direct flights are available from the rest of Europe. That said, there will still be a few restaraunts and at least one market open. Since most Kalymnians live and work at the same place, their studios usually remain available all winter so lodging should not be an issue. In addition there is more rain in Dec/Jan. During Oct/Nov rain usually doesn't last long or affect your climbing day much (hint: when the forcast shows rain, go climbing to avoid crowds since it probably won't rain anyway).
Kalymnos can be climbed all year around but the dominant season is spring/fall with most climbers going in October so crags will get a little full during this time.
The dominant reason that people do not climb as much in the winter is simply because the tourism season has died and many of the amenities in Massouri have shut down about Nov 1st and less direct flights are available from the rest of Europe. That said, there will still be a few restaraunts and at least one market open. Since most Kalymnians live and work at the same place, their studios usually remain available all winter so lodging should not be an issue. In addition there is more rain in Dec/Jan. During Oct/Nov rain usually doesn't last long or affect your climbing day much (hint: when the forcast shows rain, go climbing to avoid crowds since it probably won't rain anyway).
Guidebook (Mo' Beta)
[Updated 2015]
The Kalymnos Rock Climbing Guidebook by Aris Theodoropoulos is THE book to have for Kalymnos beta. The 2015 update includes over 2,700 routes and the Android or iOS app (see below).
The Kalymnos Rock Climbing Topo app is a great app with loads of beta and route information. All proceeds from the sale of the app go to the Glaros Bolt Fund to fund replacement and new hardware for Kalymnos routes.
The Kalymnos Rock Climbing Guidebook by Aris Theodoropoulos is THE book to have for Kalymnos beta. The 2015 update includes over 2,700 routes and the Android or iOS app (see below).
The Kalymnos Rock Climbing Topo app is a great app with loads of beta and route information. All proceeds from the sale of the app go to the Glaros Bolt Fund to fund replacement and new hardware for Kalymnos routes.
Gear Beta
Rope
60m rope: This will give you access to many routes but you will be limited.
70m rope: This is highly recommended and gains you access to most routes. Still - tie a knot in the end as there are many rope stretchers even for a 70.
80-100m rope: Talendos is now boasting routes requiring ropes of this length, and some on Kalymnos. Many big extensions will be easier with this.
You do not need to bring a stick clip.
14 draws would be a minimum for one person (or 18 for a pair if you plan to climb the same routes). Bring a few slings and longer draws to get around tufa features and depressions that cause rope drag on these long routes. 28 draws for a couple worked.
Quickdraws
18 to 20 quickdraws will have you covered. Many of the steeper routes have perma-draws in-situ.
Leaver biners
Do not leave quick-links and try not to leave biners. The environment permanently freezes quick links shut, and perhaps biners as well on less popular routes. You can rap or lower directly on a single cold shut if that was used.
Kneebar pads
This place is kneebar heaven. You may want one or two of these if you're going to push your grade or be climbing above 5.11. Durable pants will be sufficient on many routes. The grades often assume you're taking the rests into account. On the stalactite routes you'll also want a shirt on as you'll get creative back rests, headlocks, chicken wings, threadthroughs, laydowns, rodeos etc.
60m rope: This will give you access to many routes but you will be limited.
70m rope: This is highly recommended and gains you access to most routes. Still - tie a knot in the end as there are many rope stretchers even for a 70.
80-100m rope: Talendos is now boasting routes requiring ropes of this length, and some on Kalymnos. Many big extensions will be easier with this.
You do not need to bring a stick clip.
14 draws would be a minimum for one person (or 18 for a pair if you plan to climb the same routes). Bring a few slings and longer draws to get around tufa features and depressions that cause rope drag on these long routes. 28 draws for a couple worked.
Quickdraws
18 to 20 quickdraws will have you covered. Many of the steeper routes have perma-draws in-situ.
Leaver biners
Do not leave quick-links and try not to leave biners. The environment permanently freezes quick links shut, and perhaps biners as well on less popular routes. You can rap or lower directly on a single cold shut if that was used.
Kneebar pads
This place is kneebar heaven. You may want one or two of these if you're going to push your grade or be climbing above 5.11. Durable pants will be sufficient on many routes. The grades often assume you're taking the rests into account. On the stalactite routes you'll also want a shirt on as you'll get creative back rests, headlocks, chicken wings, threadthroughs, laydowns, rodeos etc.
Classic Climbing Routes at Kalymnos
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
23 Comments
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Guidebooks (4)
Winchester, VA
thanks Apr 3, 2008
Southeast,US
I spent a month there in fall 2005. It's a great place, nice rock, chill scene, and (at least then) fairly cheap. We stayed at the Fatolitis Studios in Massouri. Has a pool, it's own little private beach, and is nice. We paid 25 euros a night. From Massouri you can walk to many of the crags (Grande Grotto, Jurassic Park, Spartacus, Odyssey) and is a 10 minute scooter ride from Arhi. You can walk or take a short scooter trip to the grocery in Massouri; it's a 20 minute scooter ride to Pothia. We flew from Athens to Kos and then took the ferry from Kos Town to Pothia. This was before the airport on Kalymnos opened.
Hope this helps. Apr 5, 2008
My wife and I went there in September of 07 for our 1 year anniversary. We took a ferry from Pothia (the main port for Athens) and stayed at the Melinda's Apartments. They were great and cheap even though Kalymnos is becoming more and more touristy. We toured some of the other Greek islands and overall we just loved Kalymnos the most. The climbing is all really accessible and most climbs have their name painted on the bottom of the climb. There is a great guide book that is sold everywhere and was the most expensive thing we bought while we were on the island. I highly recommend renting a scooter even if you have never driven one. It is cheap and allows you access to many places to climb that most people don't get to. Feel free to email me with any more questions. May 20, 2008
Portland, OR
Sandy, Utah
Moab, UT
We stayed at Melina's melinas-apartments.gr/ which is very cheap for the amenities you get and George is one of the most energetic people I have ever met. Rent a scooter for sure, they are cheap and the best way to get around the island. Plus if you decide to visit other islands while your there you can just take your scooter on the ferry so you'll have a ride wherever you go.
We also took an overnight ferry from Athina to Pothia and just got a sleeper cabin. This is a good option since its cheaper than an airplane and saves you money by not having to pay for an extra night somewhere.
Have fun. Jun 23, 2010
Georgetown, Co.
Was Estes Park, now homeless
Don't try it unless you wanna get kicked outta Kalymnos.
Still, there WAS evidence that SOMEBODY was sleeping in the hills above Odyssey...
Your best bet is simply to find the cheapest studio and stuff it with dirtbags.
Good luck. Aug 20, 2011
We stayed at: vasilisstudios.gr/
This is a great choice for studios! It is about a 5-7 minute scooter ride from the Massouri "strip" and well priced (30 Euro per night during our Sept 2011 stay).
Importantly, they picked us up at the port and dropped us off when we left. More importantly, Poppy (the owner) was extremely nice and keeps the place immaculately clean! The rooms are well equipped. My wife and I did a lot of looking at other studios and were really happy with our selection of Vasilas. There are much cheaper options out there (as low as 10 Euro) for the really budget conscious...but we would have been very unhappy with the conditions at these very budget places.
Another place that caught our eye was Elenahotels.com. These looked great and are in the heart of Massouri.
As far as food, Fatolis (spelling?) and Sunrise were great quick meal (omelets, gyros, etc) places. Both have nice owners with great service. For dinner...Kokkiniahe Tavern (Upstairs just past Fatolis but on the left) and Panos O Miltilinios were our favorites.
We did not have one bad meal the whole time we were there. The seafood is all good! Definitely try the stuffed Calamari (grilled full calamari with feta). Fatolis' greek omelet is not too be missed...and Sunrise's Chicken and Bacon Gyro is sinfully good. Zorbas is also a good choice for dinner. Sep 19, 2011
Buena Vista, Colorado
Love this place! Jun 3, 2012
Salt Lake City, UT
cruxcrush.com/2013/05/15/cl…
Borden: It might be warm in June, but climbing in the shade should be fine. There is definitely easier climbing on the island. You and your wife will not be disappointed! May 15, 2013
Los Alamos, NM
- The "honey balls" for dessert at the Aegean restaurant (south end of the main drag in Masouri) are not to be missed!
- Barbra Yiannis restaurant (northern end of the main drag in Masouri) is fantastic for lunch or dinner. Super friendly staff with great, outdoor, covered seating right along the road.
Jul 10, 2014Concord, NH
Austin
SL UT
McCall, ID
Innsbruck, AT