Kalymnos Rock Climbing

Updated May 2024

RESTAURAUNTS:

There's lot of options in Massouri, including vegan and vegetarian options. Most restaurants during the winter starting mid-November and start re-opening in late March/April.

WATER:
The tap water comes from ground wells and is salty so don't drink it. Fill up your water bottles for free at the various TEMAK stations. They are white rectangles with a red roof. There's on in the middle of Massouri and another one at the north end of town before the switchbacks back towards Pothia. 

GROCERIES:
There are various mini markets scattered throughout Massouri. There is a big supermarket (closed on Sundays) in Panormos (heading back to Pothia on the right side) called AB. https://maps.app.goo.gl/zuj6RmMr9sUsTHtE6.

There's a lot of bakeries in Pothia for fresh bread and pastries. 

Updated May 2024

Peak season is Fall (specifically October), followed by Spring (April and May). The tufas can be seeping in February and March. 

Climbing in the winter is also great because there are lots of options for sunny crags. However there are a few things to consider.
1. Lots of accommodations and restaurants in Massouri start closing around mid November and re-open late March/early April. The main grocery store (AB) is open year-round and some accommodations and restaurants remain open. 

2. Ferries run between Kos and Kalymnos run less frequently and there are less flights to Kos.

3. It rains more slightly more December and January.

Climbing in the summer (July/August) is possible if you start early at 6am, bring lots of water, and hope for a breeze. 

Updated May 2024

The Kalymnos Rock Climbing Guidebook by Aris Theodoropoulos]] climbkalymnos.com/guidebook/ is THE book to have for Kalymnos beta. The 2023 update includes over 4,200 routes. A portion of proceeds from the guidebook go towards route maintenance and new route development.

The cover of the book tends to get beat up in backpacks so we always keep it in a ziplock or grocery bag. 

2/3 of all accidents in Kalymnos involve lowering a climber off the end of the rope without a knot. Always ensure you have a knot at the end of your rope. Kalymnos has long rope stretching pitches, even with an 80m rope you'll feel like you need an oxygen mask to reach the high elevation of some anchors. 

Updated May 2024

Rope

60m rope: This will give you access to many routes but you will be limited. 

70m rope: This is highly recommended and gains you access to 80%-90% of routes. Many routes are rope stretchers even for a 70 and you may have to down climb from the first bolt occasionally. 

80m rope: This will give you access to 99% of routes in Kalymnos and is the best rope length to bring. 

100m rope: Telendos is now boasting routes requiring ropes of this length, and some on Kalymnos. Many big extensions will be easier with this.

Quickdraws

Routes are mostly closely bolted here. Rule of thumb is one quickdraw for every 2 meters. The guidebook recommends:

20m route: 10-12 draws
30m route: 15-17 draws
40m route: 20-22 draws

16 draws would be a minimum for one person. Bring a few slings and longer draws to get around tufa features and depressions that cause rope drag on these long routes.

A stick clip isn't necessary and most first bolts are close to the ground. 

Leaver biners

Do not bail off of quick links. The environment permanently freezes quick links shut and they become difficult or impossible to remove. If you need to bail, use a carabiner. 

Kneebar pads

This place is kneebar heaven. It's highly recommend to bring at least one kneepad if you're going to push your grade or be climbing above 5.11. Durable pants will be sufficient on many routes. The grades often assume you're taking the rests into account. On the stalactite routes you'll also want a shirt on as you'll get creative back rests, headlocks, chicken wings, threadthroughs, laydowns, rodeos etc.

Wrench

A double box-end 17mm x 19mm wrench is ideal to help local equippers with basic route maintenance.

Helmets

Overall, the rock quality in Kalymnos is really good but a helmet is never a bad idea. Goats on top of the cliffs can knock down rocks and tufas can break at anytime. Do not sit under people climbing, especially tufa routes. New routes and crags are constantly being added and helmets are highly recommended for newer crags.