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Routes in Sikati Cave

Armata Sikati S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
B69 S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
BMW S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
El Choco Loco S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
El Chupodromo S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Laurent...y' a Quelque' un S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Les Pirates de Sikati S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lolita S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Morgan S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mort aux Chèvres S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Où est l' Équipe S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Elevation: 276 ft
GPS: 37.059, 26.938 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: WAGbag on Oct 14, 2010
Admins: WAGbag, Luke Bertelsen, Jason Halladay
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Description

This open cave is mostly shady all day with beautiful vertical and overhanging tufa climbing. With about 25 routes, several with extensions, there's plenty to do. Most routes are 5.12 (7a+) and up and the extensions are mostly in the 5.13's (8a) with a few 5.14s, but don't let that stop you if you're climbing 5.11's (upper 6's)! The ones that are there can keep you entertained for a day if your partner is climbing harder, and are well worth doing.

Getting There

The 2008 guide is quite misleading - getting off on the wrong foot can double the approach time.
Take the paved road up from Skalia and weave your way through the switchbacks, goats and large rocks in the road. After the crest, at the first switchback there's a pullout with a goat fence. DO NOT go to the first demolished house, stay high and left, parallel to the sea and pass directly through two large boulders above the 1st house. This is where you'll pick up the trail with the red dots and from there it is straightforward, passing two more valleys, a house and a gate on the 40 min approach. At the downhill mouth of the cave is a series of fixed lines to get you down. Throwing on a harness and clipping into the fixed line as you downclimb wouldn't be a bad idea.

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sikati Cave

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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