Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Andrea di Bari team
Page Views: 136 total · 3/month
Shared By: Phil Lauffen on Nov 28, 2014
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, Jason Halladay

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

Scamper on up a face that starts easier and builds to a climactic finish. It is slightly overhanging, so take advantage of the rests when you get 'em.

What is the meaning of life? Maybe it is to seize some sort of authority over your brief, pathetic existence on this glob of dust and get up a freaking awesome rock route.

Do it. Sirene. Magnificent.

Location

Look for the word "sirene" on the rock. Start climbing straight up from there.

Protection

All bolts. Don't forget the quick clippies or you will be an unhappy rock router.

Photos

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Jim Lawyer

  5.12d
Jim Lawyer    
  5.12d
Absolutely friggin' awesome. The crux are the leftward moves at two-thirds height, but I was stymied at this route at the top. I dutifully followed the chalk holds out right, then back left to the anchor, each time pumping out just before the anchor. I worked out alternate beta that involves a dyno to a pocket, then go straight up to the anchor. It's harder, but avoids the pump-out. Dec 1, 2017