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Routes in David's Castle Wall

Rocky's Roof T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Between the Betwix S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Butcher of Baghdad S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Castle Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Caterpillar T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chim-Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Electra S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Energy Czar S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fourplay T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Golden Overhang T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Golden Shower T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Handle With Care T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Instant Karma T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Instant Karma Direct S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pink Flamingo T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Playing In The Lemonade T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Psychotic Reaction T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rediscovery T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Respirator T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sadistic Rhythm T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Temporary Tradition T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Two Step S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
What Else Is There To Do? T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: Cal Swoager, Wes Love
Page Views: 130 total, 2/month
Shared By: Eduardo Ramirez on Sep 18, 2011
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

Start on Electra (5.10c). After the second bolt traverse cliff left on to the seam that runs parallel to Electra (5.10c). Follow this crack system all the way up to the top of Davids Castle towards the big pine tree. Build an anchor to belay your second up then scramble off or rappel off of the OOGA CHOCKA rings (if no one is on the route).

Options -

1) Shorten this long pitch into two shorter pitches by traversing right to the 'Electra' anchor. Rappel from here to avoid having to walk off but you are cutting short this long sustained route.

Location

Right of 'Between the Betwix'.

Left of 'Caterpillar'.

Follow the line of least resistance and most protection up and either traverse right to the 'Electra' anchor or climb up to the top and make a natural anchor.

Protection

North Carolina Trad Rack. Micro to medium gear. Two bolts from 'Electra'.

Two bolt anchor with rings if you traverse right to the 'Electra' anchor.

Natural anchor if you choose to climb to the top. This route is less traveled so be wary of poor quality rock near the top.

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