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Routes in David's Castle Wall

Rocky's Roof T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Between the Betwix S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Butcher of Baghdad S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Castle Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Caterpillar T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chim-Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Electra S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Energy Czar S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fourplay T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Golden Overhang T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Golden Shower T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Handle With Care T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Instant Karma T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Instant Karma Direct S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pink Flamingo T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Playing In The Lemonade T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Psychotic Reaction T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rediscovery T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Respirator T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sadistic Rhythm T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Temporary Tradition T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Two Step S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
What Else Is There To Do? T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, TR, 60 ft
FA: Diab Rabie
Page Views: 1,275 total, 17/month
Shared By: Eduardo Ramirez on Sep 18, 2011
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

'The Butcher' rarely sees any repeats because of it's sustained, sharp crimp, face climbing style.

Start on 'Energy Czar'. Trend up and right after the third bolt. Two options here.

(5.12)- Staying right of the bolt line was the original intention of this reachy crimp option.

(5.11+)- Staying slightly cliff left of the bolted line yields a technical, crimpy, but less reachy alternative to the (5.12) variation.

Originally this route shared an anchor with INSTANT KARMA DIRECT(5.10d) but this anchor is in need of some repair. Climb up to the ENERGY CZAR(5.10c) anchor located on the big ledge.

Location

This route starts on the same line as 'Energy Czar' but veers right at the third bolt.

Right of 'Caterpillar'.

Left of 'Instant Karma Direct'.

Protection


Six bolts to a two bolt anchor shared with 'Instant Karma Direct' and 'Karma'.

Photos

Mike Nevko
Currently Charlotte
 
Mike Nevko   Currently Charlotte
 
I really think this is a underrated route for Crowders. Looks like the harder (right side of bolts) line has flaked out and disintegrated over the years, but the left side line is still very good. Big moves to to holds that are better than you think. Until you get to the the LARGE Creaky Flake (5th to 6th bolt). Remember pull down not out. The traversing is fun too. Thanks to Diabe for this one. Mar 13, 2014
Eduardo Ramirez
Columbia, SC
 
Eduardo Ramirez   Columbia, SC
 
This route's original anchor was around the corner halfway up the wall right before the Energy Czar ledge (halfway up Instant Karma Direct). Because this anchor is in bad shape and in need of replacement, it is vetoed for the Energy Czar anchor for 'Butcher', and 'Karma' routes.

Keep your anchor short(two opposing quickdraws...with lockers for all you skeptics) and the rope drag won't be as bad.

When you rappel the rope doesn't move on the rock so it shouldn't tear up the rope when you are cleaning... unless you are being lowered on the rings in which case is seen, by some, as bad practice due to the wear on the rings.

If anything the anchors should be moved to the top of the cliff to extend the routes... just my opinion. Jan 30, 2013
Dave Frickin Coleman
West Columbia, SC
Dave Frickin Coleman   West Columbia, SC
i think the anchors for this route should be moved down below the huge ledge because when you rapell down to clean it tears the rope up really bad, the rock up there is really sharp, and if you ever wanted to top rope it you would want an extremely long anchor system. Nov 12, 2012
Drew Hayes
Charlotte, NC
Drew Hayes   Charlotte, NC
I've always wondered about this route, I think I'm going to give it a shot next time I'm out there. Apr 24, 2012