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Routes in David's Castle Wall

Rocky's Roof T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Between the Betwix S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Butcher of Baghdad S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Castle Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Caterpillar T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chim-Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Electra S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Energy Czar S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fourplay T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Golden Overhang T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Golden Shower T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Handle With Care T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Instant Karma T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Instant Karma Direct S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pink Flamingo T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Playing In The Lemonade T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Psychotic Reaction T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rediscovery T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Respirator T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sadistic Rhythm T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Temporary Tradition T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Two Step S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
What Else Is There To Do? T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, TR, 60 ft
FA: FA: Gil Harder, Kip Connor FFA: Rodney Lanier, Wes Love
Page Views: 934 total, 12/month
Shared By: Eduardo Ramirez on Sep 18, 2011
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

Start on the crack/face that leads to the left facing dihedral. Climb the dihedral to the ledge under the small overhang. Climb the technical crux leading past the small overhang to mellower climbing. Climb past the aged rusted anchor.

OPTIONS-

1)The most common option is to climb to the Energy Czar anchor. A top rope set-up will require a directional. Keep your anchor short for less rope drag over the ledge.

2)After climbing to the top, I truly recommend it. The rock is less traveled but the gear options are bomber and abundant. The climbing feels 5.7 and there is a great wide vertical crack for a bomber natural anchor. Bring up your second and walk off or use a 70 meter rope for a top rope set up.

I feel the anchor should be replaced. Since most people stop at the Energy Czar anchor, the replacement anchor should be moved to the top of the cliff! It could then be an easy access Top Rope set up for INSTANT KARMA DIRECT, TEMPORARY TRADITION, and CASTLE CORNER. The rock would clean up after more traffic. A win-win for everyone.

Location

Twenty feet right of 'Energy Czar'. Look for the left-facing corner that leads to a crack above.

Protection


North Carolina Trad Rack.

Photos

Robert Hutchins
  5.10+
Robert Hutchins  
  5.10+
Nothing significant has broken on the route. It's probably right at the border of 10+/11-, but no harder than that. You just need some good stemming technique, and a little bit of composure for the move after the crux. May 24, 2017
Barrett Pauer
Brevard, NC
 
Barrett Pauer   Brevard, NC
 
Has a hold broken in the crux? Felt way harder than any 10 I have ever climbed. 11+ seemed to be more appropriate Jan 15, 2017
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
 
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
 
Awesome route!!! Takes good gear and provides some healthy pump with a solid rest after the business! Oh so fun! Jan 13, 2013