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Areas in Main Climbing Areas

Car Wall 7 / 1 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
David's Castle (backside) 6 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
David's Castle Wall 17 / 6 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 23
Fortress, The 9 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Middle Finger (backside) 7 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Middle Finger Wall 7 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Nuke the Whales Backside 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Nuke the Whales Wall 10 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Pinky Pillar (backside) 3 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Pinky Pillar Wall 2 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Practice Wall 12 / 2 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
Red Wall 19 / 14 / 14 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 31
Resurgence Walls 16 / 13 / 12 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 35
Rising Sun Wall 5 / 3 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Two Pitch Wall 12 / 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Wrestling Wall 3 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Elevation: 1,454 ft
GPS: 35.233, -81.275 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 105,683 total, 882/month
Shared By: EricD on Feb 1, 2008
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

Description

These are the areas accessible from Linwood Road and where the vast majority of climbs are located. These areas include the Practice Wall, David's Castle, Red Wall, and the Fortress area.

Getting There

From I-85, take Exit 13 and go Left off the ramp. Continue through the light and the road will become Archie Whitesides Rd. (SR 1122). Follow this for roughly 2 miles until it dead-ends into Linwood Rd. Go Left on Linwood Rd. for about 0.1 mile and make a Right into the parking lot. Here you'll find an information kiosk and restrooms.

From the parking lot, follow the Backside Trail about a mile up a steep gravel trail. Please stay on the trail as land managers have put up a fence and signs to encourage people to do just that. The trail follows a wooden staircase that ends at an overlook and the top of the Practice Wall. This is also (usually) the end for most hikers, so people will congregate here and remark on the view of distant Charlotte (and engage climbers in a discussion of the dangers of climbing and the mental stability of those that climb).

The hike is about 20 minutes or less. There is a summit ridge that travels northeast from the Practice Wall which leads to the rest of the other areas (sans Hidden Wall).

183 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Climbing Areas

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Gastonia Crack
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Caterpillar
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pleasant Dreams
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ooga Chocka
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Holy Guacamole
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Opinionated
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dewey Used To Love It
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
The Wall
Trad, TR
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Rawlhide
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Electra
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Burn Crack
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Master Beta
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
The Gimp
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Energy Czar
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Desperately Seeking Juggage
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Gastonia Crack Practice Wall 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
Caterpillar David's Castle Wall 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Pleasant Dreams Middle Finger (backside) 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Ooga Chocka David's Castle (backside) 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Holy Guacamole Resurgence Walls > Trundlasaurus Wall 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Opinionated Red Wall 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Dewey Used To Love It Resurgence Walls > Trundlasaurus Wall 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The Wall Practice Wall 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Rawlhide Resurgence Walls > Rawlhide Wall 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Electra David's Castle Wall 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Burn Crack Practice Wall 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Master Beta Red Wall 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
The Gimp Red Wall 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Energy Czar David's Castle Wall 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Desperately Seeking Juggage Red Wall 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, TR
More Classic Climbs in Main Climbing Areas »

Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Steve Lineberry
Charlotte, NC
Steve Lineberry   Charlotte, NC  
Chris, I believe it does. Jul 28, 2017
Steve: Does this closure include Pyramid Roof? I hope not. Crowder's has lots of roofs, but that's one of the more moderates. You don't need to be solid no 5.10, and it's way high off the ground. Jul 27, 2017
Brad Caldwell
Deep in the Jocassee Gorges
Brad Caldwell   Deep in the Jocassee Gorges
Not only is it a bad idea to follow Kimmy's directions, it will also get you a ticket and possibly jeopardize climbing access...if you don't want to hike to the top to access the various areas, then please go somewhere else to climb! Jul 26, 2017
Benandstuff
Winston-Salem, NC
Benandstuff   Winston-Salem, NC
I would not recommend using Kimmy's instructions to reach the cliffs. What she fails to mention is that the post with the "hiker" symbol on it is in fact a "no hiking" symbol. The park does not appreciate climbers shortcutting the trail system, that goes for hopping/ducking the fence from the backside trail to get to Middle Finger/Nuke The Whales/Fortress as well. If you've ever used these shortcuts you can see that erosion has a field day with the unchecked usage of social trails (which are usually straight lines up/down slopes- a terrible trail practice).

I know it is kind of stupid that there aren't access trails here for climbers. Nobody wants to go to hike to the top off the mountain before hiking down to the base of whatever cliff they are trying to get to. I think there should be trails- but we need to convince the park of that fact first, and shortcutting and causing erosion isn't helping. Jul 26, 2017
Steve Lineberry
Charlotte, NC
Steve Lineberry   Charlotte, NC  
Chris, the park has closed the unemployment wall from climbing. I think it's vegetation or nesting vultures or something. I don't remember to be honest but I do know it is closed. Thanks. Jul 26, 2017
What about The Unemployment Wall? It's down to the left of The Burned Crack. I remember several routes... Calling In Sick, Get A real Job (A little freaky when you are on the loose flake, and you clip the bolt right in the middle of it) and the others. Jul 25, 2017
Getting there beta

Visited the main wall area for the first time over Thanksgiving. We followed the instructions on this page to get to the walls - ended up wasting about an hour of daylight bushwhacking down some sketchy slopes around Trundlasaurus wall. Don't do what we did (climb 340 steps only to end up at the top of the walls with no clear way down). Instead ... From the Linwood rd. parking lot - follow the Tower/blue trail (don't go right on the Backside trail) for about 0.5 miles. You will notice blue plastic trail markers on trees. When you get to one on the right that has a hiker on it, turn right and follow the dirt trail up the hill for about 300-400 yards. You will run into an old mine shaft. From here head up the hill and left of the mine shaft and you will find yourself at the bottom of Rawlhide wall. You can then follow the map to the rest of the walls. Nov 28, 2016
Edward Medina
Ridgway, CO
Edward Medina   Ridgway, CO  
The Resurgence Area now has sub-areas for New Policy, Trundlasaurus, Plane, and Rawlhide. If you see anything missing please post up. I know of at least one route (Overhung and Underrated?) that I was unable to salvage. Jan 19, 2012
Edward Medina
Ridgway, CO
Edward Medina   Ridgway, CO  
Now if we can only get an Admin's attention.... Dec 14, 2011
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
The reason I said sorting is low, is because the last section of the route authorship is location. Yes, knowing where the route is in reference to other climbs is important, which is already part of the location section, but this will only matter while you are at the cliff. The mobile application for routes is only a brand new feature and I believe not many people are using it yet. What I believe is paramount is the additional beta that helps someone decide whether or not to even get on the route. A description like "boulder problem on lead" and "standard NC rack" like Two-Step's does nothing to help make a critical decision over route safety, if it fits their style, or whether they have the specific gear for the route. Those things for someone like myself visiting or planning a trip to a new area I read more than where the climb is located. Having the guidebook in hand while at the cliff is how location is normally determined. Nothing like getting on a route to realize it would help to have doubles in the TCU size like Instant Karma. Lastly, the routes do not need numbers in their sidebar titles. Check out Sunken Treasure, which is an area that I completely sorted because I posted all the routes. I think Eddy is just new to mp and just didn't know any better. He started adding that content just a few weeks after joining. Dec 14, 2011
Edward Medina
Ridgway, CO
Edward Medina   Ridgway, CO  
I agree that all the duplicated climbing areas here need to be erased. All the photos and topos can be integrated into the existing route pages. Resurgence area could use a face-lift. I disagree that sorting is low on the priority list. I think it is a very useful feature, especially for visiting climbers. Dec 13, 2011
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
My comment about not climbing everything was when I noticed Instant Karma the 10d trad climb not having any ticks or stars by the author. He barely writes a description, definitely not one that would warrant any additional beta. People visiting this site are looking for more information than the guide book like gear beta, detailed route descriptions, personal feelings, etc... I don't see that additional information in most of his write-ups. Sorting would be low on the list if the route descriptions were more detailed. Leave the climbs unsorted or he should talk to John, saxfiend about getting authorship to the area. Once that is the case he can sort them all, but it shouldn't be so he can make them all his own. I have already contacted sax about this before I commented previously. Not to put down Eddy, because much of his photos and topos are great, but this is just a cluster f'. Its up to the admins to fix a site problem as far as the sorting goes. Dec 13, 2011
Edward Medina
Ridgway, CO
Edward Medina   Ridgway, CO  
Unfortunately, the sorting feature is only available to the area administrators and area author. Neither of the area administrators actually lives in NC and so Eddie Ramirez created the duplicate areas/routes so that he could then sort them. I agree this a very inelegant solution. Ideally, a local climber would have admin rights over this crag and simply combine the new content into the existing areas and then sort the routes.
Tom, Eddie has actually climbed nearly all the stuff here. Including a rare redpoint of Fashion and Skunkpie. Dec 7, 2011
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
I agree. Completely unnecessary to have duplicate routes, especially when the person posting them hasn't even climbing some of the stuff. Anyone can copy the guide, but I believe these postings are meant to get additional beta that the guide does not offer. I will continue to post in the original listings. It is not difficult to add to the already listed routes and areas if you have additional info that is pertinent. The Resurgance Wall is probably the only thing that needs a change/breakdown into the individual walls in that area. Dec 6, 2011
Chris Whisenhunt
Fayetteville, WV
Chris Whisenhunt   Fayetteville, WV  
Do we really need to have areas duplicated? It seems messy and with the new sorting feature I feel that everything can be resolved and that the pics can be updated to the old current areas. Nov 26, 2011

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