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Routes in David's Castle Wall

Rocky's Roof T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Between the Betwix S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Butcher of Baghdad S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Castle Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Caterpillar T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chim-Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Electra S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Energy Czar S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fourplay T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Golden Overhang T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Golden Shower T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Handle With Care T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Instant Karma T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Instant Karma Direct S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pink Flamingo T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Playing In The Lemonade T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Psychotic Reaction T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rediscovery T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Respirator T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sadistic Rhythm T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Temporary Tradition T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Two Step S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
What Else Is There To Do? T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 25 ft
FA: Wes Love, Doug Reed
Page Views: 639 total, 8/month
Shared By: Eduardo Ramirez on Sep 17, 2011
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

Start cliff left of the two sport routes in the crack system that leads to the roof.

Wes Love and Doug Reed were ballers and I've learned that they were pretty tall. I can usually onsight most 5.10's but I've been shut down on their 5.9+ routes (Sadistic Rhythm). Due to height and reach difference(but probably mostly because they were ballers) most of their routes I have to upgrade. This route is no exception.

After struggling for about twenty minutes to try and get the onsight. I fell. The gear is subtle, creative, not straight forward. The rock quality is mostly good but the cobwebs are evidence of this route not being frequented often.

I was informed by my belayer that he believed the route connected to Two Step at the roof. Examining the topo, it does seem to connect but I'm talking to Wes Love to find out if they went Direct like I attempted and later finished (not ground up yet, next time) or if the topo is correct.

Regardless, jump on this route on top rope by using a directional on the anchor for Two Step and Between The Betwix.

  • ***Great end of your day burn. On top rope, climb Psychotic Reaction, Two Step, and Between The Betwix back to back. I almost did it clean. Have fun!****

Location

Right of 'Rocky's Roof'.
Left of 'Two Step'

Protection

North Carolina Trad Rack. Small to Large gear.

Two bolt anchor shared with 'Two Step' and 'Between the Betwix'.

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