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Routes in David's Castle Wall

Between the Betwix S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Butcher of Baghdad S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Castle Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Caterpillar T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chim-Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Electra S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Energy Czar S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fourplay T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Golden Overhang T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Golden Shower T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Handle With Care T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Instant Karma T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Instant Karma Direct S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pink Flamingo T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Playing In The Lemonade T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Psychotic Reaction T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rediscovery T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Respirator T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rocky's Roof T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sadistic Rhythm T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Temporary Tradition T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Two Step S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
What Else Is There To Do? T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 25 ft
FA: Doug Reed, Wes Love (1987)
Page Views: 829 total · 10/month
Shared By: Eduardo Ramirez on Jul 18, 2011
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

Boulder problem on lead (and I agree that the start seems harder than 5.10). Smear on nothing and crimp on close to nothing with very compression style climbing moves to get to the first bolt. Climb the overhanging pump-fest after clipping the second bolt. Finish on either of the three variations. Style points for not stick clipping, but STICK CLIP RECOMMENDED!

Three variations after the second bolt.

1) Stay left of the second bolt and left of the small arete for the hardest variation and then climb straight up to the anchor.

2) Use the small arete but continue climbing left of the arete for a slightly easier variation.

3) Climb right of the bolt onto the same finish as Between The Betwix.

All fun variations to do. If you are top roping get in your last days burn and try all three finishes in a row with either the Two Step (harder) start or the Between The Betwix (Easier) start.

Location

Left of Electra (5.10c)

Protection

Two bolts. Careful as the first bolt is just high enough to make you uncomfortable.

Bolted Anchor.

Photos

Javier L
Asheville, NC
5.11
Javier L   Asheville, NC
5.11
The start to this feels more like 5.11 to me. Maybe I'm missing something but it felt like a V3 getting past the first bolt. It's considerably easier after that. Stick clip recommended. Mar 26, 2012

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