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Routes in David's Castle Wall

Rocky's Roof T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Between the Betwix S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Butcher of Baghdad S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Castle Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Caterpillar T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chim-Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Electra S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Energy Czar S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fourplay T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Golden Overhang T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Golden Shower T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Handle With Care T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Instant Karma T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Instant Karma Direct S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pink Flamingo T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Playing In The Lemonade T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Psychotic Reaction T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rediscovery T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Respirator T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sadistic Rhythm T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Temporary Tradition T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Two Step S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
What Else Is There To Do? T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Doug Reed, Ben Fowler, Wes Love, 1986
Page Views: 2,966 total, 25/month
Shared By: Chuck Parks on Feb 4, 2008
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


86 Opinions

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Description

Technical moves on a steep face take you past a flake and a small overhang to anchors.

Location

The bolt line immediately left of the Caterpillar chimney.

Protection

5 bolts, anchors
Andrew Monk
Columbia, SC
  5.10b/c
Andrew Monk   Columbia, SC
  5.10b/c
Awesome climb! Very pumpy all the way up with great foot ledges. Don't forgot to use the awesome flake on the right. It's a great rest and eases up from there if you still have the energy to finish! Nov 2, 2013
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
 
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
 
Exciting, sustained and beautiful!! Fantastic climb, fun moves and it packs a good pump yet provides great rests! Yummm, everything you could want out of a classic sport route! Jan 13, 2013
Cragmama Lineberry
North Carolina
Cragmama Lineberry   North Carolina
The new guidebook that will be coming out next year (Carolina Rocks: The Piedmont) will keep Electra at .10c. It's a pump fest for sure, but I think the terrain eases too much at the top to warrant an upgrade. Energy Czar will be upgraded from .10c (in the Select Guide) to either .10d or .11a, most likely .10d. As I value a consensus opinion more than my own personal one, if anyone wants to chime in with a vote, your views would be welcome! Jan 11, 2013
Edward Medina
Ridgway, CO
5.10b
Edward Medina   Ridgway, CO  
5.10b
I can see Energy Czar as an 11a, but I don't think Electra is 10d. Jan 11, 2013
Henry Robinson
Chattanooga, TN
  5.10c
Henry Robinson   Chattanooga, TN
  5.10c
Last time I climbed this route, a couple locals told us that Electra's rating was being changed from 10c to a 10d. The rating on the next sport route over, Energy Czar was also being changed, from 10d to 11a. Jan 9, 2013
Eduardo Ramirez
Columbia, SC
 
Eduardo Ramirez   Columbia, SC
 
In the old Thomas Kelley Guide this route was shown as going all the way to the TOP! Add some spicy traditional climbing to this already pumpy sport route by linking the second pitch of this route. Either climb to the CATERPILLAR top out or to the GOLDEN SHOWER top out. Aug 16, 2012
Matt Westlake
Durham, NC
 
Matt Westlake   Durham, NC
 
Top WAS easy, but I was so pumped I was happy for that cam placement. Rest stances seems to be a challenge on this route. Jan 30, 2011
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
The top's little runout is over very easy terrian. Lots of great jugs and foot ledges to chill out on. Jun 9, 2009
A .75 camalot or a gold metolious cam is helpful between the last bolt and the anchors. I took some pretty neat pics from the anchors of a guy leading the route Link to pictures - Electra Feb 10, 2009