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Routes in David's Castle Wall

Rocky's Roof T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Between the Betwix S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Butcher of Baghdad S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Castle Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Caterpillar T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chim-Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Electra S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Energy Czar S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fourplay T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Golden Overhang T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Golden Shower T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Handle With Care T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Instant Karma T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Instant Karma Direct S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pink Flamingo T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Playing In The Lemonade T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Psychotic Reaction T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rediscovery T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Respirator T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sadistic Rhythm T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Temporary Tradition T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Two Step S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
What Else Is There To Do? T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Shane Cobourn, Wes Love, Sean Cobourn (1980's)
Page Views: 1,715 total, 15/month
Shared By: Sean Cobourn on Aug 4, 2008
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

A fun corner towards right end of David's Castle Wall. Climb the short face to the dihedral, then follow it to the top, where you pull a small roof to a tree. Walk off to right.

Location

50 feet right of Caterpillar, 30 feet right of Energy Czar.

Protection

small to medium

Photos

b.t.miller
Charlotte, NC
 
b.t.miller   Charlotte, NC
 
I agree with Medina - left crack (alt 1) felt much harder than 5.7 and felt more like 5.9. Perhaps a hold is missing now that used to be in the crux?? Not sure but it's stout and overhanging. Once you manage the overhung finger crack you'll arrive at a large ledge that is full of briars -- had to traverse high and to the right to avoid the thorns which makes the move into the dihedral interesting. Use long slings to control rope drag through the traverse.

The slab/dihedral is fun and interesting. A few rotten pieces (on par with Crowders) but sufficiently solid with good pro. Pulling the roof seemed easier going right. Protects well with 0.3 BD cam. Feb 23, 2014
Edward Medina
Ridgway, CO
Edward Medina   Ridgway, CO  
Climbed the direct start this weekend. First 15 feet felt more like 5.9 to me. Protects very well though. Mar 12, 2013
Eduardo Ramirez
Columbia, SC
 
Eduardo Ramirez   Columbia, SC
 
Two different starts before the 5.6 slab.

1) The crack on the left is suppose to be 5.7 and looked harder than the direct on the right. I didn't have the topo on me when I choosing my start so I picked what looked easier to me. I finally climbed this alt. start and it felt harder than 5.7 but I also don't climb a lot of finger cracks. Protecting the start was probably the hardest part of this small feature.

2) The crack on the right(direct) is 5.8 CRACK climbing! Great hand jams through this short feature. Climbing mellows out to some easy slab but make sure to bring your micro-cams or small nuts. Jul 2, 2012