Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: This route was likely climbed 5 different ways in the 80's by the old FA crew but never documented.
Page Views: 280 total · 4/month
Shared By: Wade Parker on Feb 8, 2013
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

According to the old school locals, this route was scampered all over on back in the 80's by the original FA crew but it was never documented. Considering the quality of the climbing minus a rotten band at the lip of the roof, it is hard to believe the route never made it into any guidebooks. It was most recently rediscovered, cleaned off and nick named.

Climb the crack 5' left of Rocky's Roof. Continue up the right facing corner and then on the orange face up and to the right of Stupid Roof. Cut left over the roof through steep jugs with feet just above the lip of the roof. Climb up and left until over the center of the roof. Scramble straight to the top just left of the two small shrubs. Many cracks and pillars can be protected / slung to set up a natural belay anchor at the top. If rappelling or TRing, a 60m rope will barely reach the ground depending how high or low you set your anchor.

Location

Between Stupid Roof and Rocky's Roof. Obvious Crack that takes good nuts at the start.

Protection

Regular NC trad rack

Photos

Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
Really good climb. The exposure is great, it's long, and you get a wide variety of moves. Easy-ish for the grade but tricky for the leader due to the poor rock quality at the roof traverse. Nov 6, 2017
Daniel Nelli
  5.8
Daniel Nelli  
  5.8
I kicked one hold off the rotten band roof traverse and then pulled off a hold higher up on the climb. fairly fun climb, but make sure your belayer knows they're in the firing zone. Jan 10, 2019