Mountain Project Logo

Routes in David's Castle Wall

Rocky's Roof T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Between the Betwix S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Butcher of Baghdad S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Castle Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Caterpillar T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chim-Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Electra S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Energy Czar S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fourplay T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Golden Overhang T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Golden Shower T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Handle With Care T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Instant Karma T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Instant Karma Direct S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pink Flamingo T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Playing In The Lemonade T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Psychotic Reaction T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rediscovery T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Respirator T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sadistic Rhythm T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Temporary Tradition T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Two Step S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
What Else Is There To Do? T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: This route was likely climbed 5 different ways in the 80's by the old FA crew but never documented.
Page Views: 182 total, 3/month
Shared By: Wade Parker on Feb 8, 2013
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

According to the old school locals, this route was scampered all over on back in the 80's by the original FA crew but it was never documented. Considering the quality of the climbing minus a rotten band at the lip of the roof, it is hard to believe the route never made it into any guidebooks. It was most recently rediscovered, cleaned off and nick named.

Climb the crack 5' left of Rocky's Roof. Continue up the right facing corner and then on the orange face up and to the right of Stupid Roof. Cut left over the roof through steep jugs with feet just above the lip of the roof. Climb up and left until over the center of the roof. Scramble straight to the top just left of the two small shrubs. Many cracks and pillars can be protected / slung to set up a natural belay anchor at the top. If rappelling or TRing, a 60m rope will barely reach the ground depending how high or low you set your anchor.

Location

Between Stupid Roof and Rocky's Roof. Obvious Crack that takes good nuts at the start.

Protection

Regular NC trad rack
Really good climb. The exposure is great, it's long, and you get a wide variety of moves. Easy-ish for the grade but tricky for the leader due to the poor rock quality at the roof traverse. Nov 6, 2017