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Routes in Horseshead

Big D, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Blondie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Breeder's Cup T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Charlie Horse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
De-Virginizing Stud Pony T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eagle's Beak T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fall of the Republic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Feeling Loopy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Funky Gold Patina T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Glue Factory T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Goverment Mule T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hippophobia T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kentucky Derby T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Neighsayer T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Oh Wilbur T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Playing Timmy Sticks T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Pokey's Arete T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Ponyboy Arete T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Preakness T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Sea Biscuit T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tijuana Donkey Show T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Kyle Manuel, C Winn Manuel, Tim Etzkorn
Page Views: 962 total · 12/month
Shared By: K MAN on Sep 11, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Jam the hand crack that leads into a shallow, right-facing corner. Move up the chockstones, and mount the golden block beneath the roof. Climb right out the roof, and set a belay or fire up the puzzled face to the two bolted hangers right of a small prow.

Protection

Standard rack up to #4.

Photos

climber76
Loveland/Vail, CO
climber76   Loveland/Vail, CO
The route designation is somewhat confusing on this part of the crag. Sea Biscuit leads directly to Funky Gold Patina. In other words, Sea Biscuit is P1, and FGP is P2&3 of a really nice 200 ft route. Linking pitches yields a line that is equal in quality to Neighsayer. We found that the Sea Biscuit pitch goes well as one pitch. We did it by making an airy but easy step left off the roof to an excellent crack with good protection. The "crack" straight above roof won't take pro. The step across is done at the point that the belayer is standing in the photo. The first pitch seemed to be about 5.9. P3 is about 10b sport, p4 is 10a thin hands. It would be nice to have two green c4s for p4, but the anchor will likely take at least one. Take the Neighsayer raps down. They are 15 feet east of the belay. Four stars, for sure. A little easier but more sustained than Neighsayer. May 28, 2013

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