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Routes in Horseshead

Big D, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Blondie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Breeder's Cup T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Charlie Horse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
De-Virginizing Stud Pony T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eagle's Beak T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fall of the Republic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Feeling Loopy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Funky Gold Patina T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Glue Factory T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Goverment Mule T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hippophobia T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kentucky Derby T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Neighsayer T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Oh Wilbur T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Playing Timmy Sticks T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Pokey's Arete T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Ponyboy Arete T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Preakness T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Sea Biscuit T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tijuana Donkey Show T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Bernard and John Gillett, 1994
Page Views: 645 total, 9/month
Shared By: 1rsties4life on Oct 9, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

P1. Climb the finger crack beneath the large roof with a pillar at its start.

P2. Traverse right under the roof and into the chimney and climb to its top.

P3. Climb the open book dihedral to a belay below the obvious offwidth crack that cuts through the eagle's beak.

P4. Escape right along a ramp to the top of the ridge, or do the last pitch of Neighsayer.

It is possible to combine the last 2 pitches into one.

Location

This is directly below the horsehead to the right of the Sea Biscuit alcove.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.11a
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.11a
There is a bolt anchor above the chimney on what is described as pitch 2. Aug 11, 2014