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Routes in Horseshead

Big D, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Blondie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Breeder's Cup T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Charlie Horse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
De-Virginizing Stud Pony T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eagle's Beak T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fall of the Republic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Feeling Loopy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Funky Gold Patina T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Glue Factory T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Goverment Mule T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hippophobia T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kentucky Derby T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Neighsayer T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Oh Wilbur T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Playing Timmy Sticks T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Pokey's Arete T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Ponyboy Arete T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Preakness T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Sea Biscuit T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tijuana Donkey Show T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: C. Winn, T Etzkorn
Page Views: 600 total · 8/month
Shared By: tim.etzkorn on Sep 16, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

P1: Start at the dirty corner around the right side of the crag before going up the hillside. Climb a casual forty feet up the corner before laying back on the visible prow which is the crux (5.6) of the first pitch. Belay from the ledge above.

P2: Traverse left from the ledge and begin climbing at the right leaning hand crack that continues 150 feet up. Pull a 5.9 crux twenty or so feet up, continue up through a casual crack with jugs and chicken beaks into a moderate off-width. Finish on a ledge below an extremely flakey off-width to the top and walk off, or traverse left along a finger crack to bolts (5.10).

Protection

Standard rack, multiple #2-#4s.

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