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Routes in Horseshead
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Big D, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Blondie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Breeder's Cup T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Charlie Horse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Dé - Stud Pony T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Eagle's Beak T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Fall of the Republic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Feeling Loopy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Funky Gold Patina T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Glue Factory T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Goverment Mule T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Hippophobia T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Kentucky Derby T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Neighsayer T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Oh Wilbur T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Playing Timmy Sticks T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Pokey's Arete T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Ponyboy Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Preakness T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Sea Biscuit T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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TDS T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Matt Coffman, M Carnes |
| Page Views: | 1,483 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | 1rsties4life Carnes on Sep 7, 2011 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.?
Details
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
Climb the crack of Glue Factory, and when that climb leans to the right, step left into the straight up, easy to protect hand crack. It is hard to say that this is the first ascent.
Location
Climbed in the fall of 2009, this is the low angle hoof of the horse head buttress with Glue Factory. There are now bolted anchors at the top of this climb as an effort to clean up the buttress.
Photos
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