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Routes in Horseshead

Big D, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Blondie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Breeder's Cup T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Charlie Horse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
De-Virginizing Stud Pony T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eagle's Beak T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fall of the Republic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Feeling Loopy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Funky Gold Patina T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Glue Factory T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Goverment Mule T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hippophobia T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kentucky Derby T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Neighsayer T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Oh Wilbur T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Playing Timmy Sticks T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Pokey's Arete T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Ponyboy Arete T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Preakness T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Sea Biscuit T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tijuana Donkey Show T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: M. Carnes, Tim Etzkorn
Page Views: 926 total, 12/month
Shared By: 1rsties4life on Oct 15, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

About 20 yards left and slightly downhill from the start of Tijuana Donkey Show is an overhanging finger crack. Climb the finger crack up and right into the shallow right facing dihedral (10+/wild stemming). Continue up the peerless dihedral through the overlap (crux/fingers). Once through the overlap, climb through the upper slab (10c/sporty) using the crack left of Tijuana Donkey Show.

Protection

Standard rack, RPs, and small TCUs or C3s.

Photos

1rsties4life
CO
 
1rsties4life   CO
 
I think this may be my favorite line at Horsehead, With finding stances to place gear, to the climbing being incredibly varied with classic movement. Jan 30, 2012