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Routes in Horseshead

Big D, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Blondie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Breeder's Cup T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Charlie Horse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
De-Virginizing Stud Pony T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eagle's Beak T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fall of the Republic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Feeling Loopy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Funky Gold Patina T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Glue Factory T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Goverment Mule T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hippophobia T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kentucky Derby T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Neighsayer T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Oh Wilbur T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Playing Timmy Sticks T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Pokey's Arete T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Ponyboy Arete T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Preakness T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Sea Biscuit T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tijuana Donkey Show T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad
FA: Steve McCorkel, Matt Flach
Page Views: 293 total, 9/month
Shared By: morkel on Apr 18, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is an alternative final pitch to Funky Gold Patina.

Start on the large ledge with the final, north-facing crack of FGP for a move or two. Stretch out left, and clip the first of two bolts. Continue left and upward with crimps and friction feet to an intersection with a vertical crack. Climb this to an insecure top section (it's possible to continue left at the intersection, but the climbing is not as good).

Make a gear belay or use the belay/rappel bolts for Neighsayer.

Protection

Two bolts, small and medium cams, and medium/large stoppers.

Photos

Ken Duncan
Ft Collins, CO
  5.12a
Ken Duncan   Ft Collins, CO
  5.12a
Great route, it's not over when you get to the crack! May 23, 2016