Avg: 3 from 1 vote
Routes in Horseshead
|Big D, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Blondie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Breeder's Cup T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13|
|Charlie Horse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|De-Virginizing Stud Pony T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Eagle's Beak T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Fall of the Republic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Feeling Loopy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Funky Gold Patina T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Glue Factory T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c|
|Goverment Mule T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Hippophobia T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Kentucky Derby T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Neighsayer T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Oh Wilbur T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Playing Timmy Sticks T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Pokey's Arete T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Ponyboy Arete T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c|
|Preakness T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Sea Biscuit T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Tijuana Donkey Show T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Type:||Trad, 80 ft, Grade III|
|FA:||Greg Sievers & Brian Verhulst|
|Page Views:||409 total, 7/month|
|Shared By:||Greg Sievers on May 15, 2013|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionONLY THE FIRST PITCH IS NEW, but it makes a nice link-up and a plumb line up the wall.
P1 - 35m - start just left of Sea Biscuit and 15' left of the largest LFD. Start in an awkward bulge (crux) and head straight up toward a 12" wide x 8' tall, rectangular, parallel-sided inset. Just under it, move right along an easy undercling. Aim toward and into the large corner under the large roof (shrubs and loose rock were mostly cleaned out). A thin, sharp plate/edge is laminated to the right wall here. Turn the roof directly up the crack/corner at 5.7+ and proceed up the pleasant easier hand crack to the flat ledge and set a belay.
P2 - 35m - traverse straight left. A fine couple moves with big exposure, 5.7+ (like the 4th pitch of Kor's Flake on Sundance)! Teach out left and gain the delightful 3-star crack of upper Sea Biscuit. Take it to a 2 bolt anchor (visible from the ground).
P3 - 20m - climb Funky Gold Patina a 4 bolt sport pitch (.10b we thought).
P4 - 40m - walk a few meters to the left and continue up Funky Gold Patina in a thin crack above and deep inset, on the west-facing wall. Stem up and finger jam the thin, tenuous crack and seam to the summit, 5.10. Pop around the left/north side of the summit block, and find the existing summit rap anchors. 2 each x 30m fixed raps drops you at your pack and lunch.
This is a nice direct link-up straight up the wall. Thanks to all the other folks that pioneered all the hard climbing.