Type: Trad, Sport, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches
FA: S.McCorkel, K. Strobel, J.Breidt, March 30, 2012
Page Views: 1,536 total · 14/month
Shared By: morkel on May 16, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. Details

Description

P1. This route starts with Eagle's Beak. After about 60 feet of nice thin hands and hands (5.10+), move left - when Eagles's Beak moves right - on a sloping ledge for about 15 feet. After the move left, mount a low angle face with a nice 5.8 crack (described under Sea Biscuit), which leads to a set of anchors for Sea Biscuit. Belay here, or if you don't have rope drag, I recommend continuing to a nice ledge another 60 feet up.

Continue to the large ledge with a section of vertical, golden face via great holds past four bolts, to a copious ledge, and make an anchor (hand size and smaller). A #2 or 3 Camalot fits nicely before the first bolt.

P2 (or 3). Climb a left-leaning hand to finger crack on the north facing wall.

Scramble off to the east, or rappel as for Neighsayer via two, 30m rappels.

Location

This is two routes uphill and to the right of Tijuana Donkey Show. TDS has a bolt about 40 feet up. See the photo under Eagle's Beak.

Protection

Variable rack from about 1/2 inch to a #3 Camalot. Extra thin hands, and hands for the upper belay.

Photos