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Routes in Horseshead

Big D, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Blondie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Breeder's Cup T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Charlie Horse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
De-Virginizing Stud Pony T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eagle's Beak T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fall of the Republic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Feeling Loopy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Funky Gold Patina T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Glue Factory T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Goverment Mule T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hippophobia T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kentucky Derby T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Neighsayer T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Oh Wilbur T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Playing Timmy Sticks T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Pokey's Arete T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Ponyboy Arete T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Preakness T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Sea Biscuit T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tijuana Donkey Show T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: S.McCorkel, K. Strobel, J.Breidt, March 30, 2012
Page Views: 1,017 total, 15/month
Shared By: morkel on May 16, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

P1. This route starts with Eagle's Beak. After about 60 feet of nice thin hands and hands (5.10+), move left - when Eagles's Beak moves right - on a sloping ledge for about 15 feet. After the move left, mount a low angle face with a nice 5.8 crack (described under Sea Biscuit), which leads to a set of anchors for Sea Biscuit. Belay here, or if you don't have rope drag, I recommend continuing to a nice ledge another 60 feet up.

Continue to the large ledge with a section of vertical, golden face via great holds past four bolts, to a copious ledge, and make an anchor (hand size and smaller). A #2 or 3 Camalot fits nicely before the first bolt.

P2 (or 3). Climb a left-leaning hand to finger crack on the north facing wall.

Scramble off to the east, or rappel as for Neighsayer via two, 30m rappels.

Location

This is two routes uphill and to the right of Tijuana Donkey Show. TDS has a bolt about 40 feet up. See the photo under Eagle's Beak.

Protection

Variable rack from about 1/2 inch to a #3 Camalot. Extra thin hands, and hands for the upper belay.

Photos

Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
Steve, are you a Tone Loc Fan? Jun 2, 2013
morkel
Fort Collins, CO
 
morkel   Fort Collins, CO
 
Done. Exit up the crack to the left of the summit block. Not nearly as cool but indeed safer.

[edit] Okay I'll admit, I left the studs in there, if you're not scared bring two 3/8" nuts and hangers to do the direct finish, totally worth it.

Oct 16, 2012
"Be advised, after further inspection from a south-easterly vantage, the summit headwall appears detached."

Maybe it would be wise to remove the bolts on the upper headwall? My partner studied the rock a bit up there and decided to continue up the finger crack and exit stage left to a good ledge. From there, you can easily get to the Neighsayer anchor or scramble to the left and walk back down to the base. Aug 27, 2012