Type: Trad, Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: S.McCorkel, K. Strobel, J.Breidt, March 30, 2012
Page Views: 1,063 total · 13/month
Shared By: morkel on May 16, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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P1. This route starts with Eagle's Beak. After about 60 feet of nice thin hands and hands (5.10+), move left - when Eagles's Beak moves right - on a sloping ledge for about 15 feet. After the move left, mount a low angle face with a nice 5.8 crack (described under Sea Biscuit), which leads to a set of anchors for Sea Biscuit. Belay here, or if you don't have rope drag, I recommend continuing to a nice ledge another 60 feet up.

Continue to the large ledge with a section of vertical, golden face via great holds past four bolts, to a copious ledge, and make an anchor (hand size and smaller). A #2 or 3 Camalot fits nicely before the first bolt.

P2 (or 3). Climb a left-leaning hand to finger crack on the north facing wall.

Scramble off to the east, or rappel as for Neighsayer via two, 30m rappels.


This is two routes uphill and to the right of Tijuana Donkey Show. TDS has a bolt about 40 feet up. See the photo under Eagle's Beak.


Variable rack from about 1/2 inch to a #3 Camalot. Extra thin hands, and hands for the upper belay.


"Be advised, after further inspection from a south-easterly vantage, the summit headwall appears detached."

Maybe it would be wise to remove the bolts on the upper headwall? My partner studied the rock a bit up there and decided to continue up the finger crack and exit stage left to a good ledge. From there, you can easily get to the Neighsayer anchor or scramble to the left and walk back down to the base. Aug 27, 2012
Fort Collins, CO
morkel   Fort Collins, CO
Done. Exit up the crack to the left of the summit block. Not nearly as cool but indeed safer.

[edit] Okay I'll admit, I left the studs in there, if you're not scared bring two 3/8" nuts and hangers to do the direct finish, totally worth it.

Oct 16, 2012
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
Steve, are you a Tone Loc Fan? Jun 2, 2013