Funky Gold Patina
Avg: 3 from 4 votes
Routes in Horseshead
|Big D, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Blondie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Breeder's Cup T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13|
|Charlie Horse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|De-Virginizing Stud Pony T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Eagle's Beak T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Fall of the Republic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Feeling Loopy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Funky Gold Patina T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Glue Factory T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c|
|Goverment Mule T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Hippophobia T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Kentucky Derby T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Neighsayer T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Oh Wilbur T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Playing Timmy Sticks T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Pokey's Arete T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Ponyboy Arete T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c|
|Preakness T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Sea Biscuit T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Tijuana Donkey Show T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||S.McCorkel, K. Strobel, J.Breidt, March 30, 2012|
|Page Views:||1,017 total, 15/month|
|Shared By:||morkel on May 16, 2012|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionP1. This route starts with Eagle's Beak. After about 60 feet of nice thin hands and hands (5.10+), move left - when Eagles's Beak moves right - on a sloping ledge for about 15 feet. After the move left, mount a low angle face with a nice 5.8 crack (described under Sea Biscuit), which leads to a set of anchors for Sea Biscuit. Belay here, or if you don't have rope drag, I recommend continuing to a nice ledge another 60 feet up.
Continue to the large ledge with a section of vertical, golden face via great holds past four bolts, to a copious ledge, and make an anchor (hand size and smaller). A #2 or 3 Camalot fits nicely before the first bolt.
P2 (or 3). Climb a left-leaning hand to finger crack on the north facing wall.
Scramble off to the east, or rappel as for Neighsayer via two, 30m rappels.