Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Dave Pegg, 2010
Page Views: 1,712 total · 19/month
Shared By: D-Storm on Jul 5, 2011
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


20 Opinions

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Description

When in doubt, downgrade it. That's my way of saying this link-up of Der Squeal and Der Stihl felt pretty dang hard for 13b, with at least four cruxes (more like five), but I just can't quite convince myself to take credit for it as a soft 13c. Nonetheless, it's another great enduro tour of the Bauhaus.

Climb the first five bolts of Der Squeal, then make a tricky traverse left across awesome, grey-streaked stone with pockets to meet up with Der Stihl at a good left kneebar, which is below an interesting and rather powerful undercling crux. Above that, a long, immaculate headwall keeps you on your toes all the way to the anchors.

Location

This route starts on the far right side of the wall.

Protection

The route is equipped with cable draws. It would be nice if at least one of them were longer in a key spot to alleviate rope drag, as the route cuts hard left for 10 feet before going straight up. It helps to back-clean the first two bolts up to the first roof.

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D-Storm
  5.13b
D-Storm  
  5.13b
One of my friends, a short guy, like 5'4", found some beta that avoids the final crux and keeps the section at 5.11. That's all I'm gonna say about that.... Jan 25, 2012
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
 
Phil Lauffen   Innsbruck, AT  
 
Someone (not me) busted off the glued-on tooth that made the kneebar after the crux more locker this weekend. It is still a pretty good kneebar, you just have to exert more calf-pressure. May 13, 2015