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Routes in Bauhaus Wall

Baby Brothers S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brothers Carrutherzov, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Choss Temple Pilots S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Der Squeal S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Der Stihl S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Girl Talk S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Gomorrah S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Gropius S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Hot For Teacher S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Huge S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Hurl Jam S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ice Man Cometh S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Liquid Culture S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Love and Rockets S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Motley Cruise S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Roadside Prophet S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
School of Rock S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
School of Rök S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sigue Sigue Sputnik S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Squeal to Stihl S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Twisted Sister S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Dave Pegg, 2010
Page Views: 1,403 total, 18/month
Shared By: D-Storm on Jul 5, 2011
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

When in doubt, downgrade it. That's my way of saying this link-up of Der Squeal and Der Stihl felt pretty dang hard for 13b, with at least four cruxes (more like five), but I just can't quite convince myself to take credit for it as a soft 13c. Nonetheless, it's another great enduro tour of the Bauhaus.

Climb the first five bolts of Der Squeal, then make a tricky traverse left across awesome, grey-streaked stone with pockets to meet up with Der Stihl at a good left kneebar, which is below an interesting and rather powerful undercling crux. Above that, a long, immaculate headwall keeps you on your toes all the way to the anchors.

Location

This route starts on the far right side of the wall.

Protection

The route is equipped with cable draws. It would be nice if at least one of them were longer in a key spot to alleviate rope drag, as the route cuts hard left for 10 feet before going straight up. It helps to back-clean the first two bolts up to the first roof.

Photos

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Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
 
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
 
Someone (not me) busted off the glued-on tooth that made the kneebar after the crux more locker this weekend. It is still a pretty good kneebar, you just have to exert more calf-pressure. May 13, 2015
D-Storm
 
D-Storm  
 
One of my friends, a short guy, like 5'4", found some beta that avoids the final crux and keeps the section at 5.11. That's all I'm gonna say about that.... Jan 25, 2012