Type: Sport
FA: Steve Carruthers, Tom Carruthers
Page Views: 1,902 total · 9/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Dec 6, 2001
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


24 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This route was put up by the late Steve Carruthers, a Salt Lake City climber and honorary Rifle local who died backcountry skiing in the Wasatch Mountains. Steve's other contribution to the Canyon is the Gay Science, which he equipped and Christian Griffith freed. Steve often came over to Rifle to hang out and climb, and he is dearly missed.

This is the rightmost route on the vertical left sector of Bauhaus Wall and actually punches through the roof band at a series of blue-streaked overlaps above the jutting prow of Gomorrah. It begins on the ledge just right of Love and Rockets.

Climb the steep face via the nice blue streak, encountering a tricky crux or two en route. Once below the roof band you can either lower off a bolt with a link (12a/b to here) or continue. Launch up and right into the roof and keep traversing. Big air beneath you, but lots of bolts and positive holds take you to a finishing bucket over the lip.

This route is a bitch to clean. Either toprope it to clean it or lower off in two parts.

Protection

14-15 draws and a 60 meter rope.

Photos

Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
  5.12+
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
  5.12+
This is clearly one of the most classic 12c's at Rifle. The ledge start detracts somewhat, but once on the vertical wall, the rock is perfect. The movement out the roof is stellar, and the position is totally surreal. Jul 27, 2009
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
  5.12+
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
  5.12+
I just discovered this is rated 12d in the new guidebook...so, it's clearly one of the most classic 12+'s.

As for c or d, it felt harder to me than any of the other 12c's I've done at Rifle. Don't know if that makes it 12d. Jul 29, 2009
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
Phil Lauffen   Innsbruck, AT  
The diving board is feeling a bit hollow. Step lightly! Sep 3, 2013