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Routes in Bauhaus Wall

Baby Brothers S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brothers Carrutherzov, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Choss Temple Pilots S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Der Squeal S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Der Stihl S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Girl Talk S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Gomorrah S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Gropius S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Hot For Teacher S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Huge S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Hurl Jam S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ice Man Cometh S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Liquid Culture S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Love and Rockets S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Motley Cruise S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Roadside Prophet S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
School of Rock S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
School of Rök S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sigue Sigue Sputnik S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Squeal to Stihl S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Twisted Sister S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Andrew Bisharat
Page Views: 1,088 total · 12/month
Shared By: D-Storm on Nov 10, 2010
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Upside-down climbing through a 20-foot roof 100 feet off the deck makes this new route (August 2010) one of the most exciting 13a's in a canyon filled with awesome 13a's.

Climb "Brothers Carrutherzov" to the ledge before the traverse. Make the first exciting step right on that route, then blast straight up through the tiered overhangs, heading for the prominent groove through the middle of the big roof. The crux is starting that roof.

If you clip the anchors, the rope runs at a pretty harsh angle over the lip; it seemed better to down-jump, which is a whole lot of fun anyway. The anchors are where they should be, however — it would be a travesty to not turn the lip. Perhaps we should hang a bell at the finish — mandating a bell-ring and a down-jump for a proper send? No clip-able anchors, just a bell and a loop of slack dangling through space under your feet to the last bolt, which is out of sight. Ha. Or not.

Location

Follows "Brothers Carrutherzov" to the rightward traverse and goes straight up.

Protection

A 70-meter rope is a good idea, though I had rope to spare, so maybe you could get off with 62 meters or something.

Quickdraws: I think Andrew left the route equipped, but if not, you would probably need about 16-18 draws, with 5-6 of them being long runners.

Most people will likely use two kneepads, though the right one is the only one that seems kind of necessary.

Photos

William Mondragon  
  5.13b
I thought this was a spectacular route. Great job, Andrew. Jun 19, 2014

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