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Routes in Bauhaus Wall

Baby Brothers S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brothers Carrutherzov, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Choss Temple Pilots S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Der Squeal S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Der Stihl S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Girl Talk S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Gomorrah S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Gropius S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Hot For Teacher S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Huge S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Hurl Jam S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ice Man Cometh S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Liquid Culture S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Love and Rockets S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Motley Cruise S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Roadside Prophet S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
School of Rock S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
School of Rök S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sigue Sigue Sputnik S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Squeal to Stihl S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Twisted Sister S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: George Squibb
Page Views: 1,263 total · 6/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Dec 6, 2001
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route was originally equipped by Pete Zoller and Mike Pont, who abandoned the route after determining that it was "too long." It sat idle for a few years until George Squibb swooped in and freed the thing.

This is two routes left of Der Stihl and is basically the first route on the right when the approach trail drops you off at the base of the Bauhaus Wall. It climbs out the left side of the cave/wave onto a vertical face, which is followed by another bulge and a long, slightly overhanging headwall. It shares the first two bolts with Bauhaus Proclamation before moving left into a large pod/hole.

Sustained climbing on good but distant holds out the cave leads to a difficult lip move which sets you up on the vertical plaque. Shake out for the crux -- thin crimping through the bulge with plenty of hard, pumpy moves to blow it on through the middle of the headwall. The headwall eventually eases up, becoming somewhat chossy yet still gratifying.

This route is held together with a fair bit of glue but doesn't have any chipped holds . . . praise the lord!

Gropius was originally named "The Airtight Blonde."

Protection

16 draws (some long ones) and a 60 meter rope.

Photos

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a jug came off this one between 2001-2002, subsequent sends place the grade up a notch Apr 25, 2004