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Routes in Bauhaus Wall

Baby Brothers S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brothers Carrutherzov, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Choss Temple Pilots S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Der Squeal S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Der Stihl S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Girl Talk S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Gomorrah S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Gropius S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Hot For Teacher S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Huge S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Hurl Jam S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ice Man Cometh S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Liquid Culture S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Love and Rockets S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Motley Cruise S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Roadside Prophet S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
School of Rock S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
School of Rök S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sigue Sigue Sputnik S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Squeal to Stihl S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Twisted Sister S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Sport
FA: Mike Pont
Page Views: 92 total, 0/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Nov 16, 2001
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is the left of the two 5.12 routes that climb out the right side of the vertical panel beneath the roof band. It climbs an aesthetic blue/grey streak on steeper-than-it-looks rock and has some pretty in-your-face moves in a couple of spots.

Tricky for the grade but a worthy tick nonetheless. Scramble out right on the dirty ledge (your belayer should possible be either anchored in or one tier below you on the ground) and pull on via pockets. Up, up and away!

Protection

8-10 bolts.

Photos

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Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
  5.12b
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
  5.12b
Yeah, there is now a very hard move right at the start, maybe one move after you leave the ledge. I assume this is where the hold broke. The new sequence involves a big dyno from a horrible crimp. This would probably be a 12c move if it were higher on the route, but IMO, since it comes right off the start, I would still vote for 12b, although I'll gladly take the 12c if others disagree :)

If your belayer is not on the ledge, I would highly recommend stick clipping the 1st two bolts, since most people will not on-sight this move. Actually, especially if your belayer is on the ledge, stick clip at least two bolts. Still a great route! Aug 3, 2009
Jeremy H
  5.12c
Jeremy H  
  5.12c
A huge hold has broken off and made this route harder. Aug 2, 2007