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Love and Rockets

5.12c, Sport,  Avg: 2.6 from 15 votes
FA: Mike Pont
Colorado > Rifle > Rifle Mtn Park > Bauhaus Wall

Description

This is the left of the two 5.12 routes that climb out the right side of the vertical panel beneath the roof band. It climbs an aesthetic blue/grey streak on steeper-than-it-looks rock and has some pretty in-your-face moves in a couple of spots.

Tricky for the grade but a worthy tick nonetheless. Scramble out right on the dirty ledge (your belayer should possible be either anchored in or one tier below you on the ground) and pull on via pockets. Up, up and away!

Protection

8-10 bolts.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jeremy H
  5.12c
[Hide Comment] A huge hold has broken off and made this route harder. Aug 2, 2007
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] Yeah, there is now a very hard move right at the start, maybe one move after you leave the ledge. I assume this is where the hold broke. The new sequence involves a big dyno from a horrible crimp. This would probably be a 12c move if it were higher on the route, but IMO, since it comes right off the start, I would still vote for 12b, although I'll gladly take the 12c if others disagree :)

If your belayer is not on the ledge, I would highly recommend stick clipping the 1st two bolts, since most people will not on-sight this move. Actually, especially if your belayer is on the ledge, stick clip at least two bolts. Still a great route! Aug 3, 2009
Mike Lewis
Superior, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Agree with Monomaniac. Doing the initial move with a pump higher on the route would make the move harder and possibly increase the grade, but as it is, it's not too bad, though maybe a bit reachy for some. I thought the opening sequence and the whole route was quite fun. Very worthy of an ascent. Traded out a couple of faded draws. Sep 20, 2021