Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Jim Surette
Page Views: 3,609 total · 18/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Sep 23, 2002
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

This 30-meter pitch throws it all at you -- a thuggy cave, vertical limestone drip climbing, and a slopey, sustained headwall with funk moves and pissy holds.

This is basically the first route you encounter when you walk into the Bauhaus Wall, straight in front of you out the belly of the ominous cave right above the approach trail. It has a bolt down low in the 25-foot approach slab, and is the right of two lines coming off that bolt (the left one being Huge -- green draw in situ).

Because of the weird angles and such on this route, it's a good idea to use extra long draws on many of the clips, especially near the lip of the cave.

Thuggy moves and lonnnnng reaches between good holds lead to a lip encounter at bolt 5 or 6 (slapping to underclings). Step up and shake out on the vertical plaque, then surge into the 13a headwall, which has an especially tricky move just *after* the last bolt, getting to the anchors (this is a good place to fall repeatedly!).

Stout for the grade.

Protection

Many, many draws (16-18), some of them double-length for rope drag. 60 meter rope mandatory.

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Tank Evans
  5.14a
Tank Evans  
  5.14a
Great pitch, one of the best in the canyon. The upper headwall is spectacular climbing.

Regarding the upgrade to 14a, for what it's worth, it felt harder than Living in Fear. Sep 27, 2011