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Routes in Bauhaus Wall

Baby Brothers S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brothers Carrutherzov, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Choss Temple Pilots S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Der Squeal S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Der Stihl S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Girl Talk S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Gomorrah S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Gropius S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Hot For Teacher S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Huge S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Hurl Jam S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ice Man Cometh S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Liquid Culture S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Love and Rockets S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Motley Cruise S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Roadside Prophet S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
School of Rock S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
School of Rök S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sigue Sigue Sputnik S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Squeal to Stihl S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Twisted Sister S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Sport, 130 ft
FA: Don Welsh
Page Views: 2,689 total, 14/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Jun 10, 2002
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is an incredible route that in its former incarnation as a mere 25-meter pitch was known as "The Schwa." Not content with where the route ended, its first ascentionist Don Welsh yanked out the old anchors and re-routed the route onto a porcelain-hard grey streak up the headwall to the left, making for one of Rifle's best, and longest, pitches.

Huge is one route left of Roadside Prophet, the big line out the swell you first encounter at the Bauhaus Wall. Huge climbs past a fixed purple draw behind a tree into very steep terrain right of a grey bowl/depression, then moves left of an obvious Vee onto a long, streaked headwall.

It is also one route right of Tomfoolery.

Scrambled up to the ledge, clipping a bolt along the way if need be (use a verrry lonnnng sling). A skin-ripping pistol grip at the third bolt sets you up for the crux lunge, which is capped off by three bolts worth of sprinting for good, but distant, holds. A jug shake is followed by some tricky vertical climbing on popcorn holds and pockets, then a sneaky step left sets you up at the base of the grey streak, some of the best climbing in Rifle Mountain Park.

Take lots of draws and maybe a knee-pad for your left leg.

Protection

14-16 quickdraws and a 70-meter rope.

Photos

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Elliott Bates
  5.13d
Elliott Bates  
  5.13d
A brilliant route - best I have climbed in Rifle! Certainly a significant step up from Sprayathon and The Path, both mentally (due to the sheer length) and physically with harder boulder problems and longer sustained sections. Use the rests wisely, and don't punt off the amazing headwall! Apr 30, 2012
I would agree and say it is solid 13d.1-2ish ;o)~ 13c is a total sandbagger move, and everybody knows it. Apr 15, 2012
Has this route been downrated recently? I had heard it was solid 13d. Aug 31, 2005