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Routes in Bauhaus Wall

Baby Brothers S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brothers Carrutherzov, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Choss Temple Pilots S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Der Squeal S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Der Stihl S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Girl Talk S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Gomorrah S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Gropius S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Hot For Teacher S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Huge S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Hurl Jam S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ice Man Cometh S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Liquid Culture S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Love and Rockets S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Motley Cruise S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Roadside Prophet S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
School of Rock S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
School of Rök S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sigue Sigue Sputnik S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Squeal to Stihl S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Twisted Sister S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Sport
FA: Steve Hong
Page Views: 249 total, 1/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on May 3, 2001
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This isn't the best route but it's certainly worth doing if you're in the area. It's not as loose as it looks from the ground, if that's any consolation, and the moves are generally juggy and fun.

Motley Cruise is the leftmost of the trio of 5.11s on the far left sector of Bauhaus Wall and starts out in an acute dihedral before lumbering over a blocky roof feature. Amble up the well-featured face above, stopping at anchors below the giant roof band.

This was originally intended as a first pitch to a route through the big roof, which has yet to see any climbing action. Any takers?

Protection

10 quickdraws.

Photos

Just tried this route for the first time. It seemed a bit harder than 11b. Quite a bit harder than Choss Temple Pilots even. Was I totaly lost on the route, or do the 5 large, well-chalked blocks on the ground have something to do with it? May 7, 2012
davedad
Carbondale, CO
  5.11b
davedad   Carbondale, CO
  5.11b
Really fun pitch. Watch the hard moves down low. Otherwise, really enjoyable and relatively sustained. Fun and juggy climbing with some great rests. So nice to have the brand new bolts. Thanks to Mike and Lynn! Nov 4, 2014
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
All protection bolts and anchor bolts replaced with Fixe glue-ins, provided by the ASCA. Aug 13, 2014
this one is only an ok warm-up, since it starts a bit hard, and the first clip is off the deck. it actually takes a tiny bit of figgerin, so if this is your out-of-the-sleeping-bag climb, wake up first.

oh, there's also a big loose block at the top, with an"X" on it, but I didn't see the "X" till after I was past it. there's an easy way left to the anchors, and a harder way to the right. the block is, unfortunately, in the easy path. just a heads up. Sep 14, 2003