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Squeal to Stihl

5.13b, Sport, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 3.8 from 45 votes
FA: Dave Pegg, 2010
Colorado > Rifle > Rifle Mtn Park > Bauhaus Wall

Description

When in doubt, downgrade it. That's my way of saying this link-up of Der Squeal and Der Stihl felt pretty dang hard for 13b, with at least four cruxes (more like five), but I just can't quite convince myself to take credit for it as a soft 13c. Nonetheless, it's another great enduro tour of the Bauhaus.

Climb the first five bolts of Der Squeal, then make a tricky traverse left across awesome, grey-streaked stone with pockets to meet up with Der Stihl at a good left kneebar, which is below an interesting and rather powerful undercling crux. Above that, a long, immaculate headwall keeps you on your toes all the way to the anchors.

Location

This route starts on the far right side of the wall.

Protection

The route is equipped with cable draws. It would be nice if at least one of them were longer in a key spot to alleviate rope drag, as the route cuts hard left for 10 feet before going straight up. It helps to back-clean the first two bolts up to the first roof.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Taking a quick rest before the crux.
[Hide Photo] Taking a quick rest before the crux.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Derek F
Carbondale, CO
  5.13b
[Hide Comment] One of my friends, a short guy, like 5'6", found some beta that avoids the final crux and keeps the section at 5.11. That's all I'm gonna say about that....

[I edited this comment to correct the height of my friend—he'd be pissed if he saw I'd written that he was 5'4"—ha! I think I have his height correct now, if memory serves.] Jan 25, 2012
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
 
[Hide Comment] Someone (not me) busted off the glued-on tooth that made the kneebar after the crux more locker this weekend. It is still a pretty good kneebar, you just have to exert more calf-pressure. May 13, 2015
Hugh Heinrich
Cody, WY
[Hide Comment] This route was recently rebolted with glue-in hardware provided by the Rifle Climbers Coalition. Please consider donating to help maintain hardware in the canyon: rifleclimbers.org/donate/. Jun 27, 2024