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Routes in Lower Beer Wall

Afternoon Delight T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Anteater T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Backs against the Wall T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Blacksmith T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
CWI T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Clutch and Cruise T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coors Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Delirium Tremens T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Detoxification T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Diagonal Chockstone Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Equis T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Joey Baggadonuts T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lichenbrau T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Pat Tricks T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pats' Blue Ribbon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pegasus T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Redrum T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Rockaholic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Supercharged T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sword T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Turbocharge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wandering Lunatic S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, TR, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,380 total, 17/month
Shared By: Kevin Heckeler on Apr 25, 2011
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


38 Opinions

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Description

Tough opening moves to reach the corner/ramp and small tree about 15 feet up. Then continue up and left until you are below a crescent shaped right-facing corner. Face climb just to the right of the corner for a bit, then move over to the corner once it's within reach. Staying too far right for too long is stiff 5.8+ climbing. At the top of the corner begins the flake system (continuation of the corner) on the left, which is followed to the top.

Location

Start at low point in land 20-25 feet right of Rockaholic, below a small overlap that gains a right facing, left leaning corner/ramp. Rap station nearby at top and trees for anchoring.

Protection

Standard rack, easily protected.

Photos

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Nolan Huther
Clarkson University
  5.8 PG13
Nolan Huther   Clarkson University
  5.8 PG13
I had a lot of fun on this climb, especially in the middle. I don't really think the start is totally unprotected, I found a TCU to take the edge off. If that tree dies then this climb will be quite serious though! Aug 27, 2017
John Ely
DC
 
John Ely   DC
 
Really fine climb. A yellow alien or some similar tcu fits in a slot to protect the bottom bouldery move.... Aug 26, 2013
Jay Harrison
  5.8+ PG13
Jay Harrison  
  5.8+ PG13
Were it not for the unprotected start (which is significantly harder than 5.7) and the tendency for that start to be wet, this would be a great climb. The upper part is good, well-protected, thought-provoking 5.7. That start is terrible and the landing should you fall is nasty, a definite bone-breaker. Dec 7, 2012
Jaysen Henderson
Bronx NY
 
Jaysen Henderson   Bronx NY
 
linking Rockaholic to Equis was super fun, safer and you get the best of both routes! just traverse right about 30 feet up at the horizontal to go from Rockaholic to Equis. May 7, 2012
I'll confirm that the first move off the ground is 5.9 ish with no protection.Mid route is relatively straight forward, then the climb gets harder after the half way up point (5.7 ish)but is a lot of fun. There is a slung tree at top to connect rope to. Jul 8, 2011
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
  5.7+ PG13
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
  5.7+ PG13
It is worth noting that the opening moves are not protected, and minimal gear is found (save for slinging the scrawny birch) until you are under the crescent-shaped corner proper. Though the climbing above the hard opening moves are relatively easy (5.4ish), it is roughly 30 feet to good protection. Jun 4, 2011