Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Lower Beer Wall

Afternoon Delight T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Anteater T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Backs against the Wall T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Blacksmith T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
CWI T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Clutch and Cruise T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coors Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Delirium Tremens T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Detoxification T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Diagonal Chockstone Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Equis T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Joey Baggadonuts T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lichenbrau T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Pat Tricks T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pats' Blue Ribbon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pegasus T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Redrum T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Rockaholic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Supercharged T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sword T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Turbocharge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wandering Lunatic S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Chuck Turner, Alan Jolley, and Mark Meschinelli, 8/82
Page Views: 2,753 total, 22/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Nov 3, 2007
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


48 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A stout, fingery crux off the deck and an exquisite crack system highlight this hidden Adirondack gem.

Turbocharge is a great way to safely break into Adirondack 5.10s. It offers well-protected crux moves in the first 15 feet, and moderate crack climbing above to a dead tree and 2-bolt anchor to the left.

Location

About midway down the Lower Beer Walls is a clean section of cliff. This is the Pegasus Wall. To the left about 100 feet is a low roof split by a tasty finger crack--this is the start of Turbocharge.

Protection

Bring a good selection of small to medium cams, plus a few red and yellow Camalots for the crack system above.

Photos

Matt Desenberg
North Berwick, ME
Matt Desenberg   North Berwick, ME
Yowza! I remember staying more in the center of the face and following incipient cracks to the anchor and only really merged with the corner at the very end. The climbing was pretty straightforward above the crux but the pro wasn't the greatest, from what I can remember.

Glad you are ok. Oct 29, 2016


The red circle shows the block that came off today (10/11/15). The blue arrow shows about where my cam was.

The block looked relatively attached, except for the obvious traverse finger rail. I placed a cam underneath at the base against the back wall where it appeared to be sound. After pulling around and onto the face I got into an awkward position and came off onto the cam behind the block. The block came off, narrowly missing me en route to the ground where my belayer was able to duck under the initial overhand to avoid it. It was at least two microwave-sized blocks. There were wasps and lady-bugs where the block residing, indicating that the entire thing was fairly detached.

I'm not 100% sure that this was on route en route to the first belay (if you were climbing both pitches), but it seemed to be the best option. Without that block (and finger traverse) the difficulty has likely changed. I re-climbed the route to the double-rap-bolt and was lowered.

I inspect my gear placements like everyone else, and apparently this one seemed okay to me. I'm not sure if I'm the only one to ever put a piece there, or the only one to ever fall on it. Regardless, I'm glad the block feel today with me on the route and without any injuries rather than someone else who may not have been as lucky.

Whoever heads there and is familiar with the route should comment on the former block's status and if that was part of the route, and what the route's current difficulty is in moving across to the first belay if doing both pitches.


Oct 11, 2015
Eric G.
Saratoga Springs, NY
Eric G.   Saratoga Springs, NY
Fun and safe. Yellow alien very nice for the crux. Sep 3, 2012
Drake Pregnall
Morehead, KY
Drake Pregnall   Morehead, KY
There is a two bolt anchor at the top of the first pitch of this climb as late as this past spring. May 22, 2012
ddriver
SLC
ddriver   SLC
Went to the tree and it sounded much too hollow and soft for my liking, so I downclimbed and did the leftward traverse through the roof to make it into a 2-pitcher. This needs some anchor work for it to be a safe one-pitch option. Sep 27, 2011
lucander
Stone Ridge, NY
  5.8
lucander   Stone Ridge, NY
  5.8
One move off the ground (5.8+?) and then pleasant easier climbing to a dying (yikes!) cedar tree anchor. Gear for the crux is a no-brainer, a monkey could protect this thing. Aug 21, 2011
Jaysen Henderson
Bronx NY
 
Jaysen Henderson   Bronx NY
 
great route, just make sure you bring up the yellow tcu for the pot off the deck and it helped miles to have the blue #9 bd stopper on a draw so you can pop it in during the crux to make it safe. well rounded route between difficulty off the deck then a mental crux at the top. there's small wires up there if you take you're time to look around. May 30, 2011
Devin Krevetski
Northfield, VT
  5.10a
Devin Krevetski   Northfield, VT
  5.10a
I found it awkward to get gear in to protect the crux. Oct 1, 2010
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
Hey Nick, I think ones enjoyment of this route is highly dependent on how they hit the crux. One can make it through and still do some awkward moves, but if you do it right it is a very enjoyable climb. As for breaking into 5.10, this climb has gear at your waist for the crux move, and is fairly secure climbing. Blacksmith on the other hand, has some hard insecure moves above small gear between those bolts, I certainly wouldn't consider that route a good intro to 5.10. myself. Jul 5, 2010
Nick Weinberg
Lyme, NH
  5.9
Nick Weinberg   Lyme, NH
  5.9
I think this climb is just OK.

If you want to break into the 5.10 grade walk over and climb Blacksmith. It is far superior, with the crux moves bolt proteced with clean falls well off the ground. May 10, 2010
Mark Trotta
Latham, NY
Mark Trotta   Latham, NY
Sent this over the weekend. tricky start but well protected. The rest is about 5.8/5.9 but there are some run out sections, especially coming off the hanging Belay (if you do both pitches, the sketchy tree anchor is replaced by a gear anchor after making a GREAT gunks move around a roof/dihedral). Apr 6, 2010
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
 
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
 
Thanks for the photo documentation, Patrick...the more pics the merrier! Nov 26, 2007