Avg: 2.9 from 29 votes
Routes in Lower Beer Wall
|Afternoon Delight T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Anteater T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Backs against the Wall T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Blacksmith T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|CWI T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Clutch and Cruise T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Coors Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Delirium Tremens T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Detoxification T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Diagonal Chockstone Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Equis T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Joey Baggadonuts T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Lichenbrau T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Pat Tricks T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Pats' Blue Ribbon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Pegasus T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Redrum T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Rockaholic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Supercharged T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Sword T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Turbocharge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Wandering Lunatic S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13|
|Type:||Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Rich Leswing, Jim Cunningham, and Peggy Collins 7/21/82|
|Page Views:||2,646 total, 22/month|
|Shared By:||Robert Hall on Dec 16, 2007|
DescriptionA "must do" for first-time visitors to the Adirondacks, steep for the grade with some nice exposure.
Start this route on the off-width size crack that leads to the large belay. (5.7 / 40 feet) You can also reach this spot by easy 5th class on the flake/chimney on the right.
Leave the belay and head off right aiming to turn the roof. The crux moves lead past this roof (bolt), then finish up easier ground to the rim of the cliff. (5.8+ PG / 110 feet)
Enjoy the big air below you, strenuous and thoughtful climbing all over the route, and clean rock abound.
History: This route was one of the classics of the region until the roof collapsed in 2008, taking with it the only protection through this section. What remained was a lone, unstable tooth hanging from the [now higher] roof. This finally fell too. A bolt was added in 2016, reinstating this classic upper pitch.
LocationIn the center of the Lower Beer Walls, about 200 feet to the left of the Pats' Blue Ribbon alcove is a large detached flake leaning against the cliff. This is it.
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