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Routes in Lower Beer Wall

Afternoon Delight T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Anteater T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Backs against the Wall T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Blacksmith T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
CWI T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Clutch and Cruise T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coors Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Delirium Tremens T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Detoxification T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Diagonal Chockstone Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Equis T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Joey Baggadonuts T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lichenbrau T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Pat Tricks T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pats' Blue Ribbon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pegasus T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Redrum T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Rockaholic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Supercharged T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sword T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Turbocharge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wandering Lunatic S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Rich Leswing, Jim Cunningham, and Peggy Collins 7/21/82
Page Views: 2,642 total, 22/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Dec 16, 2007
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


29 Opinions

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Description

A "must do" for first-time visitors to the Adirondacks, steep for the grade with some nice exposure.

Pitch 1:
Start this route on the off-width size crack that leads to the large belay. (5.7 / 40 feet) You can also reach this spot by easy 5th class on the flake/chimney on the right.

Pitch 2:
Leave the belay and head off right aiming to turn the roof. The crux moves lead past this roof (bolt), then finish up easier ground to the rim of the cliff. (5.8+ PG / 110 feet)

Enjoy the big air below you, strenuous and thoughtful climbing all over the route, and clean rock abound.

History: This route was one of the classics of the region until the roof collapsed in 2008, taking with it the only protection through this section. What remained was a lone, unstable tooth hanging from the [now higher] roof. This finally fell too. A bolt was added in 2016, reinstating this classic upper pitch.

Location

In the center of the Lower Beer Walls, about 200 feet to the left of the Pats' Blue Ribbon alcove is a large detached flake leaning against the cliff. This is it.

Protection

A standard rack with a nice variety of passive pro. Long slings and a couple cordelettes. If you want to rap this route, bring a tag line, or climb with doubles.

Photos

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Eric G.
Saratoga Springs, NY
Eric G.   Saratoga Springs, NY
Somewhere near the crap pin, a probably-good-enough yellow alien can be very delicately placed. Sep 3, 2012
Devin Krevetski
Northfield, VT
  5.8 PG13
Devin Krevetski   Northfield, VT
  5.8 PG13
great route, a little sketchy for my taste off the P1 belay ledge. Sep 30, 2010
Nick Weinberg
Lyme, NH
  5.8+ R
Nick Weinberg   Lyme, NH
  5.8+ R
Climbed this the other day. I was told that it was 5.7, and a classic. It felt more like hard 5.8. The 5.8 first pitch of Anteater is a fun, well protected way to reach the second pitch of this climb.

I would recommend Blacksmith next to this if you are looking for a high quality, well protected face climb..... May 14, 2010