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Wandering Lunatic
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 2.4 from 8
votes
Routes in Lower Beer Wall
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Afternoon Delight T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Anteater T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Backs against the Wall T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Blacksmith T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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CWI T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Clutch and Cruise T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Coors Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Delirium Tremens T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Detoxification T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Diagonal Chockstone Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Equis T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Joey Baggadonuts T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lichenbrau T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Pat Tricks T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pats' Blue Ribbon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Pegasus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Redrum T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Rockaholic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Supercharged T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sword T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Turbocharge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wandering Lunatic S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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| Type: | Sport, 90 ft |
| FA: | Patrick Purcell and Bill Dodd (TR) 9/8/88 |
| Page Views: | 1,755 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Duca on May 24, 2007 |
| Admins: | Jim Lawyer |
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Description
This route used to be a top-rope climb until someone bolted it a few years back. Now it is a stellar, bolt-protected face climb that raises the hairs on your neck, as well as forces you to wander (thus the name of the route) a bit to reach each bolt.
Reach the start of the climb by 4th-classing your way up to the dirty ledge at the base of The Sword. A belay can be set up below the face with a couple of green and red Camalots and a carefully slung, dying Birch tree.
Clip the anchor with a QD, then balance your way to the first bolt. Now, very deliberately, make your way up to the 2nd bolt and clip it--whew! (The section between the 1st and 2nd bolt is PG13, as a fall from here would have you landing on your belayer almost definitely!)
Now, climb the exquisite slab up past 7 bolts to a crux comfortably placed right above the 6th bolt.
Clear the top of the route and walk back about 5 yards to the trees to build an anchor. (Note: At the time of this entry there are no fixed anchors at the top of this route.)
Reach the start of the climb by 4th-classing your way up to the dirty ledge at the base of The Sword. A belay can be set up below the face with a couple of green and red Camalots and a carefully slung, dying Birch tree.
Clip the anchor with a QD, then balance your way to the first bolt. Now, very deliberately, make your way up to the 2nd bolt and clip it--whew! (The section between the 1st and 2nd bolt is PG13, as a fall from here would have you landing on your belayer almost definitely!)
Now, climb the exquisite slab up past 7 bolts to a crux comfortably placed right above the 6th bolt.
Clear the top of the route and walk back about 5 yards to the trees to build an anchor. (Note: At the time of this entry there are no fixed anchors at the top of this route.)
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