Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Patrick Purcell and Bill Dodd (TR) 9/8/88
Page Views: 1,777 total · 13/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on May 24, 2007
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

This route used to be a top-rope climb until someone bolted it a few years back. Now it is a stellar, bolt-protected face climb that raises the hairs on your neck, as well as forces you to wander (thus the name of the route) a bit to reach each bolt.

Reach the start of the climb by 4th-classing your way up to the dirty ledge at the base of The Sword. A belay can be set up below the face with a couple of green and red Camalots and a carefully slung, dying Birch tree.

Clip the anchor with a QD, then balance your way to the first bolt. Now, very deliberately, make your way up to the 2nd bolt and clip it--whew! (The section between the 1st and 2nd bolt is PG13, as a fall from here would have you landing on your belayer almost definitely!)

Now, climb the exquisite slab up past 7 bolts to a crux comfortably placed right above the 6th bolt.

Clear the top of the route and walk back about 5 yards to the trees to build an anchor. (Note: At the time of this entry there are no fixed anchors at the top of this route.)

Location

About 100 yards to the right of Rockaholic up a not-so-obvious gully that turns into 4th class terrain.

Protection

7 bolts. Gear for the belayer.

Photos

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