Wandering Lunatic
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
FA: | Patrick Purcell and Bill Dodd (TR) 9/8/88 |
Page Views: | 2,315 total · 14/month |
Shared By: | Chris Duca on May 24, 2007 |
Admins: | Jim Lawyer |
Description
This route used to be a top-rope climb until someone bolted it a few years back. Now it is a stellar, bolt-protected face climb that raises the hairs on your neck, as well as forces you to wander (thus the name of the route) a bit to reach each bolt.
Reach the start of the climb by 4th-classing your way up to the dirty ledge at the base of The Sword. A belay can be set up below the face with a couple of green and red Camalots and a carefully slung, dying Birch tree.
Clip the anchor with a QD, then balance your way to the first bolt. Now, very deliberately, make your way up to the 2nd bolt and clip it--whew! (The section between the 1st and 2nd bolt is PG13, as a fall from here would have you landing on your belayer almost definitely!)
Now, climb the exquisite slab up past 7 bolts to a crux comfortably placed right above the 6th bolt.
Clear the top of the route and walk back about 5 yards to the trees to build an anchor. (Note: At the time of this entry there are no fixed anchors at the top of this route.)
Reach the start of the climb by 4th-classing your way up to the dirty ledge at the base of The Sword. A belay can be set up below the face with a couple of green and red Camalots and a carefully slung, dying Birch tree.
Clip the anchor with a QD, then balance your way to the first bolt. Now, very deliberately, make your way up to the 2nd bolt and clip it--whew! (The section between the 1st and 2nd bolt is PG13, as a fall from here would have you landing on your belayer almost definitely!)
Now, climb the exquisite slab up past 7 bolts to a crux comfortably placed right above the 6th bolt.
Clear the top of the route and walk back about 5 yards to the trees to build an anchor. (Note: At the time of this entry there are no fixed anchors at the top of this route.)
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