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Routes in Lower Beer Wall

Afternoon Delight T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Anteater T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Backs against the Wall T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Blacksmith T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
CWI T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Clutch and Cruise T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coors Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Delirium Tremens T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Detoxification T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Diagonal Chockstone Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Equis T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Joey Baggadonuts T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lichenbrau T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Pat Tricks T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pats' Blue Ribbon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pegasus T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Redrum T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Rockaholic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Supercharged T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sword T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Turbocharge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wandering Lunatic S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Patrick Purcell and Bob Martin - 1992
Page Views: 3,164 total, 35/month
Shared By: Greg Kuchyt on May 18, 2010
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

General: Blacksmith offers a fairly sustained section of gear protected face climbing on great rock with great movements. If you're comfortable at this grade of face climbing, don't miss this route!

Pitch 1 (5.10a): Take the line of weakness up the face passing the small tree ~6' up and head up between the hanging cedar on your right and the small vegetation on your left. Climb past many horizontals (protection), past an overlap, until the first bolt appears. Climb to a stance and a small placement and then lock in to find the line and make committing moves (crux) to gain the first bolt. Continue up following the weakness in the face to a piton, a second bolt and a second piton to a welcomed stance below the left side of the roof. From here either find the right-most of two left-to-right finger cracks and make an unexpected hard move to gain the finger crack and follow easier rock to the top. Alternatively, head straight up from the stance (bearing slightly left) to the roof and traverse to the bolt and then past it pulling the roof on the edges formed by a right-rising thin seam/crack (5.10c). Head up on easier rock albeit somewhat spare on protection.

Location

Start: In the Pegasus Area of the Lower Beer Walls. Start as for Lichenbrau below a small tree growing out of the rock 6' above the ground.

Descent: Either walk off back down to the Lower Beer Walls via the north trail, or rappel on a 70m rope (a 60m rope will not get you to the ground).

Protection

Two bolts, two pitons, single rack to 3" w/ doubles in small TCU sizes to fingers. The pitons can both be backed up with micro cams if so desired. There are a few trees at the top to build an anchor on, as well as a fixed tree anchor.

Photos

sara pax
western mass
 
sara pax   western mass
 
with a bit (10-15') of 5.4ish down climbing I was able to do one rap with a 60m. Trend left towards the chimney corner and it should leave you on a little ledge. Knot your ends! Aug 10, 2015
Nick Weinberg
Lyme, NH
Nick Weinberg   Lyme, NH
Nice long sustained pitch of face climbing. The steep exposed start looks improbable, but moderate holds and good gear appear. Bring extra small gear. Sep 3, 2014
worth russell
Brooklyn, NY
 
worth russell   Brooklyn, NY
 
Great route fully sustained for the whole pitch.you can lower with a 70m. 60 doesnt quite get u down. Crux is getting to the first bolt and its also the biggest spacing between gear. I had two bombwr cams in prior to bolt. Bring smaller gear yellow to blue aliens Oct 6, 2013
Jaysen Henderson
Bronx NY
 
Jaysen Henderson   Bronx NY
 
amazing, the crux (first bolt) may seem a little contrived but after and before that this climb is just simply stunning. best piece of advice is to pick out you're line before you head up and place gear accordingly. It is all too easy to get a heinous amount of rope drag off the wandering start. I would suggest a double rack up to #1 and 1 # 2 and 3. medium to small size stoppers help on this to back up pins. Its a very gratifying lead for sureeeeee Oct 31, 2011
T Roper
DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
 
T Roper   DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
 
cruxy then sustained, super good Jan 8, 2011