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Routes in Lower Beer Wall

Afternoon Delight T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Anteater T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Backs against the Wall T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Blacksmith T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
CWI T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Clutch and Cruise T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coors Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Delirium Tremens T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Detoxification T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Diagonal Chockstone Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Equis T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Joey Baggadonuts T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lichenbrau T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Pat Tricks T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pats' Blue Ribbon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pegasus T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Redrum T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Rockaholic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Supercharged T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sword T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Turbocharge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wandering Lunatic S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, TR, 90 ft
FA: Tad Welch, Oct 19, 1986 (roped solo)
Page Views: 811 total, 10/month
Shared By: Alicia Sokolowski on Jul 17, 2011
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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7 Opinions

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Description

Follow the shallow arch and thin crack to larger holds and a bolted anchor shared with Rockaholic.

Not sure if I went off route, but this seemed like nice moderate face climbing to me leading up to a fun overhang/bulge. I climbed it twice to try different ways to get over the overhang, and I found the moves easier center left. Fairly dirty, but well worth it.

Location

About 10' left of Rockaholic.

Protection

I climbed on toprope from the bolted anchor shared with Rockaholic. No directional needed in my opinion. I can't make gear recommendations as I didn't lead it.

Photos

Shane Kenyon
  5.8+ R
Shane Kenyon  
  5.8+ R
Definitely harder than either Equis or Rockaholic. This is a fun route and can be protected with small gear. It needs a wire brush but I think it could be a classic. I find it more fun and challenging than the other routes in this area with some very cool moves, especially getting around the boulder near the "finish." The bolts I'm aware of are at a big ledge which is about 30-40' short of the top of the cliff. Im not sure if it is supposed to be the finish of the climb but I think a lot of people are using them for this, Rockaholic and Delirium Tremens. Oct 29, 2017
Alicia Sokolowski
Brooklyn, NY
 
Alicia Sokolowski   Brooklyn, NY
 
Climbed this weekend, and I can confirm there is a bolted anchor. Sep 3, 2017
Jim Lawyer    
 
I should add that this route shared a tree anchor with Rockaholic, and that this tree died some years ago. I believe there is a new fixed anchor (on gear), but I'm not sure exactly where it is, or if it's still there.

Edit: As of July 2017, use the new fixed anchor on Rockaholic. Jun 22, 2017
Alicia Sokolowski
Brooklyn, NY
 
Alicia Sokolowski   Brooklyn, NY
 
Thanks Jim, I'll update the description above. Jun 22, 2017
Jim Lawyer    
 
The tree with the fixed anchor is gone. Jun 22, 2017