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Routes in Lower Beer Wall

Afternoon Delight T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Anteater T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Backs against the Wall T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Blacksmith T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
CWI T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Clutch and Cruise T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coors Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Delirium Tremens T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Detoxification T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Diagonal Chockstone Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Equis T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Joey Baggadonuts T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lichenbrau T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Pat Tricks T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pats' Blue Ribbon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pegasus T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Redrum T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Rockaholic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Supercharged T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sword T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Turbocharge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wandering Lunatic S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Rich Leswing and Jim Cunningham, 6/2/82
Page Views: 2,788 total, 23/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Dec 16, 2007
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

An overhanging handcrack that starts in a steep cave and is only 5.8?--You betcha!

Steep and imposing at first, Clutch and Cruise delivers a dose of surprising enjoyment for the first 25 feet of climbing. It is then capped by some more moderate and less appetizing vertical rock grappling above.

Start the route on the right side of the large alcove on the Lower Beer Walls in the steep wide crack. Surmount the steepness using good jams, stems and layback techniques, then relish in the glory with a victory romp to the tree anchor above and to the left on a nice ledge. (Note: There is a 2nd pitch, but not a soul does it. It is on much easier terrain that clocks in at around 5.4.

Location

The right side of the alcove on the Lower Beer Walls.

Protection

A normal rack with a few #3s and a #4 Camalot. Long slings are also helpful.
Sean Sullivan
Boise, ID
 
Sean Sullivan   Boise, ID
 
Brutish! Body english certainly pays off on this climb. Solid jams through the crux and good gear... Good times. Jul 10, 2015
Eric G.
Saratoga Springs, NY
Eric G.   Saratoga Springs, NY
I really don't know how to evaluate the big tree that is slung as an anchor, but it is well-rooted by basically one giant root and overhangs the cliff with no support from directly underneath it, looks very dead but seemed to be sprouting green leaves, and is covered in deep wood-pecker holes. The rock up there is chossy too.

IMO, this route is awesome for like 30 or 40 feet, and then, not so much. May 6, 2013
Drake Pregnall
Morehead, KY
Drake Pregnall   Morehead, KY
Glad to see someone else found the no-hands positioning before the crux. I think that's such an awesome thing on this route. I would like to add that I think this route ought to have its own bolted anchor at the top of the corner section above the meat of the route. Other climbs at the Beer Walls such as Rockaholic have gone from having bad and inconveniently placed tree anchors to simple two bolt anchors. I think it would make the climb better, as it would avoid the super chossy sections towards the top, and it would make it a lot more convenient to toprope this route. May 24, 2012
Jaysen Henderson
Bronx NY
 
Jaysen Henderson   Bronx NY
 
This may be my favorite route at the beer walls and i've done the better part of the classics there. This climb takes some creativity and some confidence, the jams are very good and if you get a little funky like me and corkscrew before the crux you can place the pro hands free. I had no problem doing this with one of each BD #2 and #3, also despite the description in the book i found the finish to be awesome, it was bouldering up a ladder. Aug 1, 2011
worth russell
Brooklyn, NY
worth russell   Brooklyn, NY
This route is a beast for a 5.8 May 31, 2011
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
Such an awesome route. Hit it just right and it's 5.8/8+ for sure. Mess up the crux just a little and you could be looking at anything from 5.9 to .10+! So I see why it's graded .8+, and why folks call sandbag. Sooo fun though Aug 15, 2010
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
 
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
 
Climbed this today for the first time in a long while, and thought it to be quite tough in the grade (5.9-, perhaps?). Gaining the less than vertical section seemed rather difficult and thrutchy despite the stemming. Aug 15, 2010
Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
  5.8+
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
  5.8+
A #4 Camalot protects where the overhang breaks into the upper inside corner and a #3 will go a few feet below that. The crux is as such, well protected. Jun 23, 2009